The city of death

There are several places in the world where people travel to, live their life to the fullest and experience new things. However, there’s only one place where people come to die. A city where death isn’t something to be afraid of, but where death is a celebration.

Manikarnika Ghat, the most auspicious place to be cremated in Varanasi; Image source: Wikimedia Commons

Every year hundreds of Indians travel to Varanasi to live out their last days. It is probably the only place in the world that has death hotels like the Mukti Bhavan. A place where people find lodging waiting for death. There are stories of people who have been waiting for decades in Varanasi for death to knock at their door.

But Varanasi isn’t a morbid place. Even though it’s a place where people come to die, the city itself seems alive with the colours and sounds of the Ganga Aarti. It isn’t a place of macabre but a place of celebrations, sounds and peace. In Hindu tradition, it is believed that if a person dies in Varanasi then they are freed from the cycle of rebirth and attain moksha, and their gravest sin is washed away on the banks of Varanasi. But where did this belief originate from?

Varanasi is an ancient city, and has survived through times especially because of its social and cultural importance. There are several myths surrounding this ancient city. The Kashi Vishwanath temple is so ancient that it is even mentioned in the Kashi Khanda of Skanda Purana. It is believed that the city was founded by Lord Shiva himself.

As per Shiv Purana, during an assembly of rishis and saints, Brahma, filled with arrogance, proclaimed that he was the supreme creator of the universe. Shiva appeared as a pillar of light and challenged Brahma. Everyone present accepted Shiva’s superiority except Brahma, who in a fit of vanity, insulted Shiva. An angry Shiva took the form of Bhairava and with a flick of his fingernail cut off one of Brahma’s heads. Earlier, Brahama used to have five heads but now he was only left with four.  Brahma now realised his mistake and humbled by this show of strength accepted Shiva as superior.

This narrative is also found in Kurma and Matsya Purana, while slightly different versions are found in Varaha and Skanda Purana. However, all the Puranas agree that after Shiva cut off one of Brahma’s heads, it stuck itself to the left palm of Shiva. In anger, Shiva had just committed the grave sin of Brhamahattya, as he had killed the most learned Brahmin- Lord Brahma.

To atone for his sin, Shiva had to perform the vow of a Kapali. Which meant Shiva had to wander as a mendicant with the skull of the slain as his begging bowl. Shiva then took the form of Bhikshatana, the supreme mendicant. In Kurma and Skanda Purana, Shiva’s sin took the corporeal form of a ghoulish woman who follows him everywhere he goes.

The Bhikshatana Shiva wanders the three worlds: Swarg Lok (Heaven), Prithvi Lok(Earth) and Pataal Lok(Hell), accompanied by ghouls and ghosts. When Bhikshatana reaches Vaikuntha, the abode of God Vishnu, he is stopped by Vishvaksena, Vishnu’s gatekeeper who doesn’t recognise Lord Shiva. An angered Shiva impales him on his trident, this form of Shiva with a corpse on his trident is called Kankal-Murti. When he meets with Vishnu and asks for food, Vishnu offers his blood. He then directs Bhikshatan Shiva to visit the city of Varanasi. All Puranas agree that when Bhikshatana reached Varanasi, Brahma’s skull detached itself from Bhikshatan’s palm in a place now known as Kapal Mochan. The Ghoulish woman got banished to hell and Vishaksena is resurrected. As Shiva takes a dip in the holy waters, his Bhikshatana form disappears and he went back to his abode absolved of his sins.  In the epic Mahabharata, the Pandavas after the Kurukshetra war visited Varanasi to atone for their sins of fratricide and Brhamahattya committed during the war.

Today Varanasi observes an average of 80 funerals per day, people from all over India go there to free themselves from the cycles of rebirth. It’s a place that’s supposed to wash your sins and help you break free from the cycle of rebirth. In simple words, Kashi is a place worth dying for - quite literally.

A sculpture of Bhikshatana Shiva in Annamalaiyar Temple; Image source: Wikipedia