The Royal Safe House of Kodagu Kings

Waheeda Bi khan

The Royal Safe House of Kodagu Kings

Throughout history, wars have shaped the course of power dynamics, showcasing strategies of bloodshed and guerrilla warfare. However, amidst these tales of conflict, some monuments have endured the test of time, serving as enduring symbols of history. Among them is the Nalkanad Palace, distinguished for its role as a sanctuary away from the ravages of war, rather than a prominent seat of power.

Nalkanad Palace with the Mantapa; Source: Coorg Tourism

For ages, the history of warfare has not only witnessed power dynamics through bloodshed and guerrilla strategies, but it has also left enduring monuments that have stood the test of time. These monuments often take the form of palaces and forts. One such palace is the Nalkanad Palace, unique for its role as a sanctuary away from the ravages of war, rather than a symbol of political authority.

The origins of the palace can be traced back to the 18th century, a period marked by intense conflicts and shifting power dynamics in the Carnatic region. The construction of Nalkanad Palace began during the reign of Hyder Ali and continued amidst the persistent conflicts between the Mysore state and the king of Mercara, culminating in the death of Tipu Sultan and the subsequent annexation of Kodagu by the British. These conflicts were sparked by the military clashes between the European powers of Britain and France, which gradually dismantled the dynasties and kingdoms of the Indian subcontinent through warfare and colonial strategies. While the Mughals contested British supremacy in the north, it was the Mysore state, led by Hyder Ali, that posed a significant obstacle to British dominance in the south. Unfortunately, this nurtured a culture of conflict that permeated the lush jungles and mountains of the Western Ghats in the Indian peninsula, where the British capitalists were acquiring vast hilly estates in the Kodagu region for coffee plantations.

Threatened by the growing British presence in the hilly terrain of Kodagu, which was then ruled by the Haleri kings, Hyder Ali turned his attention to these mountainous lands, now part of the state of Karnataka. In an attempt to curb British hegemony, a series of wars erupted, triggering one of the most enduring conflicts in Indian history. Yet, amidst these ongoing wars, a few monuments were built using the very stones uprooted during succession disputes, military struggles, and political manoeuvring. One such monument served as a haven and hiding place for the Haleri kings.

The Nalkanad Palace became the last refuge for the final Haleri king of Kodagu until he surrendered to prevent significant losses to his kingdom. He was subsequently exiled from his birthland. Serenely, the Nalkanad Palace encapsulates the pathos of rulers, their ever-shifting power dynamics, betrayals, and losses within its walls, echoing through the annals of Kodagu history for centuries to come.

Seven years into his reign, Dodda Vira Rajendra visited Sir Robert Abercromby in Kannur (also known as Cannanore) in Kerala, to sign a treaty pledging allegiance to the British against Tipu Sultan. Meanwhile, his two brothers managed to escape the clutches of the Mysore state and took up residence at Naalnaad Aramane. As the next heirs to the throne and with Dodda Vira Rajendra blessed with only four daughters, they held a significant position in the succession line. According to local legends, the tragic death of Dodda Vira Rajendra's second wife mentally unhinged the king, leading him to commit regrettable atrocities against his subjects within the palace until his death. As per his will, the ten-year-old eldest daughter, Devammji, was married to Mallapa Gowda and declared the Queen of Kodagu. Lingaraj II, Dodda Vira Rajendra's uncle, assumed governance as the regent for the young niece until his demise. However, Lingaraj II's son, Chikka Veera Raja, orchestrated the murder of all the family members, including the queen, to seize the throne. Following a pattern often found in the history of colonisation, the new king now had to wage war against the British, who used his alleged betrayal of the treaty as a pretext to encroach further into his kingdom.

Today, the Nalkanad Palace is located in the Kodagu district, a few kilometres from Madikeri (known as Coorg during British rule), beneath the imposing Thadiyandamole, the highest mountain in the region. It sits in the village of Yavakapadi, part of Kakkabe town. The traditional palace exudes a sense of serenity and aesthetic allure, adorned with beautiful paintings and carvings that create a vibrant ambience reminiscent of regal grandeur. The Durbar Hall, now silent, once reverberated with musical performances enjoyed by the nobility. It also served as the venue for royal assemblies, where strategies of war and defence were charted.

In the 18th century, a rift in the matter of royal succession among the Haleri kings led Lingaraj I to seek the support of Hyder Ali in his bid to ascend the throne. The Mysore state eagerly seized the opportunity, and upon Lingaraj's coronation, he granted a few territories to Mysore as a gesture of gratitude. After Lingaraj's death, Hyder Ali declared himself regent to the deceased king's three underage sons. The princes were interned at Gorur Fort in the present-day Hassan district, while an interim administrator and a garrison from the Mysore state were stationed at Mercara, the capital of Kodagu. This arrangement prompted suspicion among the British settlers and local nobility, who questioned Hyder Ali's intentions and incited a rebellion against the Mysore state garrison in the region. A couple of years later, taking advantage of the ongoing Anglo-Mysore war between Hyder Ali's forces and the British, the Kodagu nobility declared themselves independent from the Mysore state. However, their efforts to bring back the young princes proved futile.

When Tipu Sultan assumed leadership of the Mysore state, he imprisoned the three princes—Linga Rajendra, Appanna, and the eldest, Dodda Vira Rajendra—in Periyapatna as a response to the Kodagu rebellion. A series of bloody wars ensued between the two states, inflicting deep wounds upon the Kodagu region that resonate to this day. Throughout this time, the eldest prince sought support and awaited an opportunity to escape his captivity. In 1786, after six years, that day arrived, and he returned to his homeland, declaring himself the king of Kodagu. However, he was unable to reclaim the Nalkanad Palace or the fort at Mercara, known as Madikeri. It was during this phase of reclaiming the forts that he recognised the need for a palace that would provide refuge and protection for himself and his family against their enemies.

The double-storey Nalnad Aramane was constructed using locally available wood and stones, following the traditional Kodagu architectural style, characterised by a crested dome, low-slung pillared facade, and conical roof. When Dodda Vira Rajendra married his second wife, Mahadevammaji, a wedding mantapa (pavilion) was built in the palace courtyard, guarded by statues of four majestic bulls. The basement of the palace contained two hidden rooms intended as hideouts for the king and his family in the event of an attack. With the indigenous subjects keeping watch from the vantage points of the towering trees in the surrounding forests, the king orchestrated his operations from this historic palace, which is now protected by the Archaeological Department of Karnataka.