The spicy tale of Rogan Josh

Rogan Josh is a beautiful red-colored, complex-flavored lamb curry dish that’s a staple in Kashmiri cuisine. Although Rogan Josh is more closely associated with the Kashmir region of India, this aromatic lamb curry has its roots elsewhere.

A Kashmiri delicacy, Rogan Josh. Source: An Edible Mosaic

<p class="ql-align-justify">During the scorching summertime, the Mughals enjoyed visiting the mountainous state of Kashmir. There, in the charming lakeside gardens, they found an escape from the stifling heat of the plains. The Mughals' presence spurred the emergence of Kashmiri cuisine, and it was here that the ubiquitous<em> Rogan Josh</em> was created.</p><p class="ql-align-justify">Rogan Josh originated in Persia. In Persian, the word "rogan" (which means clarified butter) denotes a stew of meat cooked over high heat (josh means hot). The regional spices used to flavor the dish in Kashmir differ depending on the cook's religion.&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-align-justify"><br></p><p class="ql-align-justify">Kashmiri Brahmins are uncommon in that they consume meat without reservation, but they avoid onions and garlic, therefore their version of Rogan Josh contains fennel seeds and asafoetida to flavor the lamb.&nbsp; The dried flower from the Cock's Comb plant (maval), as well as a lot of garlic and onion, are used in the Muslim version. This plant is native to Kashmir and bears a furry, red blossom that resembles a cock's comb. This herb gives dishes a vivid red color and is especially beloved by the Kashmiri Muslims.</p><p><br></p><p class="ql-align-justify">According to some food historians, the dish's name, rogan, which means red in Kashmiri, comes from its redness. Rogan Josh has the honor of being one of the seven meals that are always served in <em>Wazwan</em> (a 36-course ceremonial and traditional Kashmiri feast). Rista, Tabak Maaz, Dhaniwal Korma, Aab Gosht, Marchwangan Korma, and Gushtaba are the other six exquisite delicacies on the permanent wazwan menu. According to legend, Wazwan was first introduced to Kashmir in the 14th century with the arrival of Timur-e-Lung, during the reign of the Tughlaq dynasty of the region. It is believed that the descendants of those very cooks are the <em>wazas</em> (master chefs) of Kashmir. History tells us of a significant migration of expert artists and cooks to Kashmir from Samarkand.</p><p><br></p><p class="ql-align-justify">The Ain-e-Akbari recipes show the Persian and central Asian influences on Mughlai cuisine. Saffron and asafoetida, the two Persian favorites, were demanded in large quantities, and therefore, the Mughals farmed these plants on the subcontinent to ensure that their kitchens always had a ready supply available. Asafetida, often known as heeng, gained popularity among vegetarians.</p><p><br></p><p class="ql-align-justify">Asafoetida was discovered to release a garlicky flavor when fried in butter and oil, making it an excellent replacement for onions and garlic, which were shunned by religious Hindus. Thus, the use of heeng and its distinct flavor, aroma, and the bright red Kashmiri mirch (chilli), as well as the aromatic Kashmiri garam masala, which is different from the commonly used Punjabi garam masala, are the key ingredients in the preparation of Kashmiri Rogan Josh.</p><p><br></p><p class="ql-align-justify">Despite the fact that some dishes have been prepared since antiquity, many aspects of contemporary subcontinental cuisine emerged during the middle ages. Saffron, nuts, and sealed pot cooking were all introduced by central Asian conquerors during the birth of Mughlai cuisine. The Persians had a significant influence on the Mughals, who brought many aspects of Persian culture to the Indian subcontinent. Mughlai food is typically presented as a lavish buffet, with dishes like Pulao, Kebabs, and Rogan Josh on the menu.</p><p><br></p><p><br></p>