A Close Saga of Madras Checks

The once-famous fabric is finding it difficult to sustain its charm amidst growing competition and other surmounting challenges. However, the age-old tradition refuses to lose its sheen and continues its legacy even in the contemporary world.

The Famous Madras Checks Image Source: Fibre2Fashion

Madras Checks, AKA Madrasi Checks, has been the epitome of South Indian culture, making its distinct mark on global fashion. It has overcome challenges like its non-popularity among our own millennial generation, unlike its acceptance in the Western world. Remember that it has been the source of unconventional attire, inspiring the overseas fashion quotient that, however, finds no takers in our very own land. Just think about its early association with lungis, and you get the idea why it doesn’t appeal to the current generation.

This Madras plaid was indeed a strong point in establishing a fashion influence in the global sphere across world-renowned regions like New York City, London, Paris, and Milan, to name a few. The hot and humid region that Madras (now Chennai) is, laid the foundation for this ancient attire featuring a colourful blend of vegetable dyes to be worn as lungis has now undergone a complete transformation.

While there was no intention of creating a fashionista appeal around this culture, it’s fascinating to know how it became a global phenomenon over the centuries.

Entry into the Middle East and Africa

Headscarves and bottom wear are long associated with Gulf countries and several regions of Africa. The simple plaid, in the early 13th century, thus, became a sought-after source for these nations to design their attire, enabling our Madrasi Checks to gain a competitive edge beyond the nation’s borders.

Add to this the colonising of the Dutch that laid the foundation for its mass production, eventually leading to expanding Madras checks across the globe. Interestingly, the Dutch were keen on trading calico cloth after reaching the sleepy fishing village, Madrasapattinam in 1612. These factors proved to be the catalysts that would give an international appeal to traditional plaids.

The British Fascination

Making a super-successful presence in the Middle East and Africa was enough for the British to drive home the advantage. It was the perfect backdrop to trading this plaid overseas, and it inspired the administrator of the East India Company to leverage the opportunity. It made its way into African nations like Nigeria, where its transformation to ‘Injiri’ established a deep connection between Nigerians and their ancestors.

The British assurance of providing exceptional returns became the catalyst for weavers and merchants to settle in Madras, actively involving themselves in crafting the one-of-a-kind Madras Checks.

A Plunge into RMHK

An abbreviation for Real Madras Hand Kerchief, its enriching history dates back to the British Era in India. It’s during this period that one finds Madras checks initially being used for making these small square pieces of cloth intended for trading. It was the authentic Nigerian Kalabari identity, playing a vital role in Nigeria’s religious events and special ceremonies. Some of these events include:

1. A father giving this piece of cloth to his newborn child

2. Young girls wearing them during their coming-of-age ceremonies

3. The tribal Ekine society wears it as a vital aspect of their ceremonial dress

4. Using it to decorate the funeral room and the bed of the deceased

And so…the Plaid Journey Continues

Studying the perspective of the growth and expansion of Madras Checks hooks you from the start. What started as a humble piece of cloth, handmade and vegetable-dyed, finds itself as a machine-produced finesse attire. It has travelled through transformations over the centuries, beyond borders and oceans, that finally appeals to the affluent global society.

It has made its way into the religious sentiments across the world, including fashionable wedding attire for brides in select African countries.

The fact that the Indian essence remains throughout makes it a global cultural symbol beyond a mere fashion statement. From the fashion choices of Americans on their vacations to fashion magazines to ramp walks to fashion influencers, and everything in-between, the Madras plaid continues its legacy through modern times, promising greater laurels in the future.