A Palace of Coins and Culture

Waheeda Bi khan

A Palace of Coins and Culture

In a region where patriarchy reigned as the norm, there existed a remarkable kingdom in Attingal, Travancore, where a lineage of powerful queens ascended the throne. The last in this four-century-old matriarchal legacy was Ashvathi Tirunal, renowned for her fearless and resolute regency, and hailed as Umayamma Rani. The Koyiikal Palace, once the abode of her political supremacy, now stands as an iconic museum, showcasing the vibrant folklore and diverse trading heritage of Kerala.

Koyikkal Palace Museum, Thiruvananthapuram; Source: DTPCThiruvananthapuram

The Koyikkal Folklore Museum proudly displays the only remaining piece of the small percussion musical instrument called Chadravalayam, which used to accompany the folk recital known as Ramakatha Paattu of Kerala. Additionally, the museum showcases the costumes and headgear worn by performers of ‘Ottamthullal’, representing the folk deities.

While the upper floor preserves the treasures of rustic and indigenous artefacts, the ground floor of Koyikkal Palace chronicles the diversified, international, and cosmopolitan trading history of Kerala through the currency that passed through the flourishing traders along the Arabian shores. This unique Numismatic Palace Museum in Kerala showcases coins minted in distant lands, representing different kingdoms across the subcontinent, from ancient to medieval times, with various patterns symbolising their origins and patrons. Over 300 gold coins featuring the ruler Hardin and other Roman gods and goddesses illuminate the extent of Kerala's ancient trading history and the depth of its legacy. The rarest coin from Venetia, believed to have been gifted to Jesus Christ and known as Amaida, pays sacred homage to the museum and its collectors, making it possible for us to behold it today.

The museum on the upper floor is exceptional in honouring the wealth of Kerala folklore, which serves as the delicate yet resilient silk thread that connects the pearls of legends, myths, and significant events from our past. Musical instruments like Nathuni, used in songs of Onappattu and Nanthunippattu during Onam, accompany the unique wooden sarangi and the traditional exercising contraption called Oorakkudukku. Precious manuscripts written on palm leaves known as Thaliyola coexist with brass, copper, and wooden kitchen appliances from the medieval era. These artefacts stand alongside the revered Kettuvilakku lighting lamps used in temples, including the Gajalakshmi oil lamp used during the harvest season.

Koyikkal Palace stands as a witness to this queen's capable regency and the amenities she enjoyed while conducting court with her relatives, both within and beyond its walls. The large rooms surrounding a central courtyard and the sloping gabled roofs of this two-storey structure represent the iconic Nalukettu architectural style of Kerala. Although other structures associated with the palace, such as the kitchen, store rooms, and stables, have vanished over time, the cultural heritage breathes new life through the folk models exhibited in the Koyyikkal Palace Museum.

In a land where patriarchy was the norm, there once existed a kingdom in Attingal, Travancore, where a powerful lineage of queens inherited the throne. The last of this four-century-old matriarchal legacy was Ashvathi Tirunal, renowned for her fierce and bold regency, known as Umayamma Rani. The Koyikkal Palace, where she wielded her political supremacy, has now transformed into an iconic museum, showcasing Kerala's rich folklore and diverse trading heritage.

The Koyikkal Palace was once the seat of power for one of the queens of Attingal, a province governed by the female heirs of the royal family of Travancore. Built in traditional Kerala architecture, the palace preserves its unique history from the time of Umayamma Rani's regency by conserving heritage treasures such as royal artefacts, indigenous folklore amenities, historical coins, and more. Today, the palace stands prominently as a two-in-one museum, designated as a monument of importance by the state government of Kerala. Its walls echo unique tales of feminist valour and remarkable defiance of norms.

As the Koyikkal Palace chronicles the lineage of minted coins, the folk instruments, folk art illustrations, household appliances, and decor displayed and treasured here evoke pride in our enriching ancestral glory. The story of the Koyikkal Palace may have begun when Umayamma Rani exercised her capable regency, but she left an indelible mark on the grounds, ensuring an intriguing prominence that would never fade away in the annals of South Indian history.

Most of India's monuments encapsulate the stories of numerous kingdoms ruled by men. However, among them, there was a sovereign state in the Western Ghats governed by the Venads, where gender did not dictate the ruling power. Breaking the monotonous system of inheritance in Indian royal families, this kingdom followed the unique matrilineal system, known as the marumakkathayam pratha, which defied the patriarchal norms of the land. According to this system, the throne was succeeded by the children of the king's sister. If the sister, who often held the position of queen, had a son to inherit the throne but no daughter to continue the lineage after her son, the current king had to adopt a niece from another royal family. However, this raised the question of why any other royal family would willingly part with their precious daughter when they also followed the matrilineal system.

In the early 14th century, one of the Venad kings resolved this predicament by offering a region named Attingal to the Kolathiri kingdom. This agreement assured that the two daughters of the Kolathiri territory would not only become a part of the Venad royal family but also that all future female heirs would reign as sovereign queens of Attingal. In return, the female heir had to marry the Venad king and provide sons to continue the ruling lineage of the kingdom. The region that came under the Venads' control later became commonly known as Travancore.

Since that day, Attingal was glorified by a succession of powerful queens for four centuries. In the 1600s, Ashvathi Tirunal continued his lineage and duty by marrying the contemporary king, Aditya Varma. Unfortunately, political rivalry led to the premature death of this Venad king, and the next heir was an underage nephew named Ravi Varma. When other opportunists within the royal family sought to take advantage of the situation and claim the throne, Queen Ashure, also known as Umayamma Rani, vehemently declared herself the regent of the young prince, who was her elder sister's son. However, due to constant anticipation of attacks from external and internal enemies, Umayamma Rani decided to establish a haven in the province of Nedumangad to protect the child prince. Although the matriarchs were allowed to rule Attingal, the royal family of Venad-Travancore felt threatened by this queen, who exhibited exceptional skills in navigating the storms of politics, trade, commerce, and administrative challenges, surpassing even her male counterparts. It is said that her dominant yet worthy administrative influence continued even after Ravi Varma became king until her passing in 1698.

Much speculation surrounds her feminist outlook, although the term was unknown during her time. Anecdotes from various personal and public records provide ample evidence of her bravery, quick wit, and liberal lifestyle. For instance, one foreign visitor referred to her as "an Amazon who was feared and respected by everyone.”