A Renaissance of Religion: The Tale of Dakshineswar

One of the most pious and attractive tourist destinations in Bengal is undoubtedly Dakshineswar Temple. Built under the supervision of Rani Rashmoni, this architectural marvel is a site of social rebellion and the breakdown of rigid caste and patriarchal norms. But there is more to this temple than this - it is said that the divine Mother appeared to the Rani in a dream, commanding her to build the said temple on the banks of the holy Ganga.

Where miracles meet devotion; source: planetofhotels.com

A fleeting sense of the divine lingers like petrichor in the premises of Dakshineswar, filled with the fragrance of sandalwood incense. The cacophony of bells and mantras engross a disquieted soul in search of solace at the feet of Goddess Kali, the Hindu deity of devastating feminine rage.

The famous Dakshineswar Temple, situated adjacent to the picturesque Ganga flowing in eternal motion, is one of the chief tourist attractions of West Bengal. Today, its reputation has travelled far and wide, inviting countless devotees to flock to the architectural marvel to catch a glimpse of the deity in the sanctum sanctorum, offer prayers, and receive the sacred prasad. The location of the temple is scenic, blending piety with aesthetics.

Interestingly, the history of Dakshineswar Temple perfectly encapsulates its founder's fiery personality and unwavering religious faith: Rani Rashmoni of Janbazar, a 19th-century Mahishya philanthropist. However, the temple’s history is rooted in divine callings and miracles.

According to Rani Rashmoni, the idea of building a temple for the goddess came to her in a dream. She had always been a religious woman and her devotion was quite well known. Sometime during the 1840s, the ageing Rani decided to embark on a pilgrimage to Kashi (present-day Varanasi) to present her offerings to the Divine Mother. Rani was to travel in twenty-four boats, carrying relatives, servants, and supplies. Yet, despite intense preparations for the purpose, she could never make this pilgrimage a success. Do you know why?

According to traditional accounts, the night before the pilgrimage began, Rashmoni had a vision of the Divine Mother in the form of the goddess Kali in a dream and reportedly said, "There is no need to go to Banaras. Install my statue in a beautiful temple on the banks of the Ganges River and arrange for my worship there.  Then I shall manifest myself in the image and accept worship at that place."

Profoundly affected by the dream, Rani Rashmoni did not wish to waste a single moment in redundant debates. The divine Mother had placed an immense responsibility on her devotee's shoulders, but she would never shirk from it. In the following years, the dream slowly and steadily came to life, as with each brick inlaid, history was being made. In this temple, Kali would be worshipped in the form of Bhabatarini. An interesting fact about the land on which Dakshineswar stands is that it was a confluence of three religions. The land, resembling a tortoise shell, was partly a Muslim burial ground and belonged to Sir Hastie, an Englishman. Such a piece of land was considered ideal in Tantra traditions. That Dakshineswar would become a site of miracles in the future was guaranteed when the mystic Gadadhar, better known as Ramakrishna Paramhamsa, arrived as its priest. It is said that one day Rashmoni was praying in the temple in Gadadhar's company when the priest suddenly admonished her. Accusing her of not concentrating on prayer and instead thinking of worldly affairs at the altar, he had surprised the Rani, who admitted to being distracted.

Amid miracles and dreams, let us not forget that building a temple as a woman and a low caste in 19th-century Bengal was practically unthinkable - unless you were the "people's Queen" herself.

A stamp issued for the revolutionary woman; source: Wikipedia

Rani Rashmoni’s unconventional outlook and indomitable spirit made her an unforgettable figure in Bengal’s socio-cultural history. In an age of fettered femininity, she was a lone widow responsible for managing a large family estate while navigating a hostile society looking down upon her as a lower-caste woman entering a man’s world of zamindari, trade, and commerce. This was also a time of rigid Brahminical values, with lower-caste people constantly in danger of 'displeasing' the Brahmins or upper castes. The idea of worship has historically been associated with the priest class or Brahmins, and 19th-century Bengal followed this dictum closely. The non-Brahmin Rani, though the owner of immense wealth and a social worker and philanthropist, was still a diminutive widow who was attempting blasphemy by building a temple. The temple, a deity’s residence, being constructed by a low caste was a sacrilege. Yet, the courageous Rani stood her ground with unwavering faith in herself and God. The group of Brahmins, fueled by centuries of self-serving superiority complex, opposed her in vain. She had resolved, and nobody could change her mind. Every threat was braved with the magnanimity of spirit by the Rani, whose undying mental strength led to the creation of the great temple. The very community that once opposed its building today worships the goddess Bhabatariniin all her divine glory. Through her zealous act of resistance and willpower, she set an example for other women to follow.