Bagru Printing: The Art of Exquisitely Splashing Natural Colors

Have you ever wondered how to make your clothes more colourful and eco-friendly? Do you want to learn about a centuries-old tradition of printing with natural dyes? If yes, then you should know about Bagru printing, a unique form of hand-block printing that uses wooden blocks and natural colours to create stunning patterns on fabrics.

Bagru block printing process | Outlook India

Block printing is a traditional Indian art practice that is widely adopted across the nation. From pretreatment to the stamping of the base material with gorgeously patterned blocks, Rajasthan's traditional Bagru prints capture the essence of environmentally responsible textiles and printing techniques. The Bagru printing method is estimated to have been invented around 450 years ago in the Rajasthani village of the same name, located 30 kilometres to the east of Jaipur. Chhipas, an indigenous group of traditional craftsmen who printed fabrics by hand, is credited with creating the Bagru printing method.

Bagru printing is not a simple process. It involves several steps, from preparing the fabric to finishing the printed materials, using their indigenous methods. First, the cloth is soaked in harda, a natural mordant derived from the myrobalan fruit, which binds the colour to the cloth and gives it a distinctive yellowish hue. Followed by this, it is dyed with natural colours derived from plants and minerals, such as indigo for blue, alum for grey, iron scrap or horseshoes for black, and madder for red.

The harda soaked fabric gives a yellow hue that disappears when the dyed fabric is dried in the sun.

The wooden block to be used for printing is first chiselled to perfection with a desired motif | Source: Cotton Cottage

The wooden blocks used for printing are carved with different motifs, such as flowers, animals, geometrical shapes, and even human figures. These motifs reflect the nature and culture of Rajasthan. A printer will typically need at least four or five blocks to produce a hand-printed piece of fabric. A single block's preparation and carving can take one or two days because choosing and seasoning local woods is a labour-intensive process that is unique to each pattern design.

When making blocks in Bagru, carvers frequently employ woods like Sagwaan (Teak), Sheesham (Indian Rosewood), or Rohida (Desert Teak). When strength and softness are required, Sagwaan is used. In contrast, Sheesham's relative hardness is better suited for complex or finely detailed motifs. These blocks are then soaked in oil overnight and then washed before use. The printer dips the block in the desired colour and then stamps it on the fabric with precision and expertise. The result is a beautiful spread of synchronised motifs and colours on a light-coloured background.

Various Motifs and Hues of Bagru from the Land of the Sand | Source: The Indian Wire

Bagru printing is not only an art form but also a way of life for the Chhipas. They live in a community quarter called Chhipa Mohalla, where they work together and share their knowledge and resources. They also follow certain rituals and customs related to their craft, such as worshipping their tools and celebrating festivals like Teej and Holi with their prints.

Bagru printing is a sustainable and eco-friendly practice, as it uses natural materials and avoids harmful chemicals and waste. The colours are biodegradable and do not pollute the environment. The fabrics are also durable and comfortable to wear. Bagru printing is a perfect example of how tradition and innovation can coexist harmoniously.

Today, Bagru printing is gaining popularity among people who appreciate its beauty and value its ethics. It is used for various products, such as clothing, curtains, bags, quilts, etc. It is also being experimented with new designs and techniques by contemporary artists and designers. Bagru printing is a living heritage that deserves to be preserved and promoted for generations to come.