Chikankari Embroidery: Weaving the Threads of Elegance and Tradition

As Lucknow edges on to become a global city, one fondly decides to think of all the exceptional things that it has provided the Indian subcontinent. Chikankari embroidery tops the list with its dainty handicraft work, and the beauty and grace it imparts its wearer. Passed from generation to generation, the art form has managed to charm the young population of India and even garnered international praise.

Chikankari embroidery. Source- Utsavpedia.

College campuses in Delhi University bustle with the new desi aesthetic, Pinterest*-*inspired fashion. Students dress up in their beautiful ethnic shirts and kurtas, and the dainty handiwork of the flowing kurtas, and the simple yet exquisite chikankari embroidery stuns the onlooker with its delicate work.

Lucknow, the capital city of Uttar Pradesh and its people are famous for two things- their nawabi tehzeeb (etiquette) and the brilliant Awadhi chikankari (art form). A timeless art form known as Chikankari embroidery can be found in this bustling city of India, amidst the busy streets and colourful markets, weaving together history, technique, and traditions to create a tapestry of ethereal beauty. For generations, both royalty and simple people have used this magnificent technique to embellish their clothing because of its fine threads and rich history.

The origins of Chikankari embroidery are shrouded in the mists of time, adding an air of mystery and allure to this ancient art form. Some believe it was introduced to India by the Mughals, while others trace its roots back to the time of the Persian emperors who ruled the region before them. Of course, there are references to embroidery similar to chikan work in Indiaas early as the third century B.C. Regardless of its precise genesis, it was during the Mughal era, especially under Jahangir and Nur Jahan, that Chikankari flourished and gained prominence as a symbol of sophistication and grandeur.

The word Chikankari itself has Persian origins, derived from chikan, meaning 'a fine cloth.' Indeed, this craft thrives on the finest and sheerest of fabrics like muslin, cotton, and silk. From the eastern reaches of the Mughal Empire, Shazaada cotton, also known as Dhaka ki mulmul, was used for embroidery. In those days, dupattas were the primary use of fabric lengths.

The detail of the painting juxtaposed with what the Chikankari probably looked like. Source- Saar.

The usage of Chikankari embroidery developed significantly during the colonial era, and decorated goods exported to Britain included muslin garments, collars, table covers, runners, mats, and even tea covers!

Chikankari is a delicate and intricate embroidery technique that involves hand-stitching various patterns and designs onto fabric. Skilled artisans, often passed down through generations, painstakingly create these beautiful motifs using a variety of stitches, each with its unique charm and complexity. The myriad of stitches allows artisans to create a wide range of designs.

However, embroidery is a time-consuming and arduous procedure from beginning to conclusion. The three-step Chikankari technique consists of block printing, needlework, and washing out. Choosing a design and engraving it onto a wooden block are the first steps in the block printing process.

These blocks are then stamped onto the embroidered cloth after being dipped in dyes or Neel. The second phase, embroidering the design, is where the needlework is used. The artists use a multitude of stitches to create the design depending on the fabric and pattern. The cloth cleaning process is the last step. The fabric is given a long soak in water and then dried.

The process of bloc printing on Chikankari fabrics. Source- D'Source

Since Chikankari is a Persian-influenced art form, most of the themes and designs are floral with the addition of stems, leaves, and other natural elements. The endless options for artistic expression are made possible by the Paisley motif, which also features grass stalks, palm fronds, peacocks, butterflies, and other birds and animals.

Chikankari's Persian-inspired motifs.  Source- The Heritage Lab

Chikankari embroidery is not just a craft; it is a living legacy, kept alive by the skilled hands of devoted artisans who have preserved the tradition over generations. Today, Chikankari has evolved to encompass not just clothing but also home decor items and accessories, embracing modernity while staying true to its traditional roots.

Chikankari's significance goes beyond its aesthetic appeal; it is a symbol of unity, as artisans from diverse backgrounds and communities come together to create this art. It is a testament to the multicultural fabric of India, where different threads blend seamlessly to create a harmonious whole. Furthermore, Chikankari embroidery has a profound social impact, providing employment opportunities for numerous skilled artisans, especially women, who often work from the comfort of their homes. This has not only empowered women economically but has also preserved the art form by passing down the craft from mothers to daughters.

Chikankari embroidery is a budding source of livelihood for underprivileged/ low-income women. Source- India Chalk

Today Chikankari embroidery has expanded into the global market and has garnered many admirers and connoisseurs. The craft of this state-of-the-art embroidery provides one with a wide range of clothing products like Sarees, Kurtas, Dupattas, Lehengas, Dress Materials, Salwars, Skirts, etc; Chikankari is now even available in products like sofas and cushion covers, bed sheets, dining covers, bags, etc! It is abundantly clear that the Chikankari craft has successfully endured for centuries with effective sustainability and continues to retain its extraordinary appeal. The only thing that has changed over time is the adaptation, which has only helped Chikankari become more well-known and eminent over the world.