City of Lost Monuments

Situated in a valley to the east of the Western Ghats, Halebidu is a timeless gem constructed by the Hoysalas. It holds historical and cultural significance, boasting some of the most important Hindu and Jain temples. The legends of the city serve as a reminder that the qualities embraced by an empire are never forgotten.

A map of Halebidu By Ms Sarah Welch - Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=109328989

Sometimes, the past shows us that love, valour, faith, and devotion transcend time and space, immortalizing the people who lived them. As the sun rises over the waters of Dwarasamudra Lake, a group of monuments bathes in golden light, showcasing the artistic brilliance of the Hoysalas. Amidst their shadows, the ruins of Dwarasamudra eagerly await to share their stories.

The Hoysalas, descendants of Krishna-Baldeva and the Yadavas of Maharashtra, formed alliances through marriage with the Kalyani Chalukyas. In the 11th century, King Vinayaditya relocated his capital from Belur, situated on the banks of the river Yagachi, to Dwarasamudra, proclaiming it as their illustrious capital, the "Shrimad Rajdhani." Numerous inscriptions attest to its significance for various Hoysala Kings.

To ensure a reliable water supply, King Vinayaditya constructed a canal to divert the waters of the Yagachi to the new capital, creating a massive tank to store it. This tank was so vast that, when filled to the brim, it resembled an endless ocean, earning the city its name, the "Gateway to the Ocean." Fort walls were erected around the city, enclosing four major reservoirs and several smaller public water tanks. However, the most remarkable creations within this city were the magnificent temples.

Dwarasamudra is not merely a city of water reservoirs and marvellous temples; it is a city of legends. The winds of the city whisper various tales to the visitors. One beloved story revolves around the love between King Ballala II and Queen Shantala Devi. The king constructed the Kedareshwara Temple as a tribute to his queen, and the intricate carvings within the temple depict the couple engaged in acts of love, devotion, and marital bliss.

Another captivating tale tells of the legendary sculptor Amarshilpi Jakanchari. Commissioned by King Vishnuvardhana to sculpt the image of Shiva for the Hoysaleshwara Temple, Jakanchari became so devoted to Lord Shiva that he carved the deity's face with his own eyes closed, relying solely on his touch and unwavering faith that his Lord would guide him flawlessly.

Nestled amidst low-lying mountains and seasonal rivers, brimming with love and beauty, the city became a cultural melting pot during the two centuries of Hoysala rule. Artisans, poets, musicians, and scholars from diverse backgrounds flocked to the city, creating a vibrant and flourishing intellectual and artistic hub. The temples themselves became centres of cultural exchange, hosting performances, religious ceremonies, and intellectual discourses. This convergence of influences resulted in a rich and dynamic cultural tapestry.

In the 13th century, internal disputes between two factions of the Hoysala family, one ruling from Dwarasamudra and the other from Kannaur, led to strife over the city. Exploiting these divisions, Malik Kafur invaded Dwarasamudra, forcing King Ballala III to submit to his rule. Kafur ravaged the city, destroying buildings and plundering 312 elephants, 20,000 horses, and vast amounts of jewellery. He imposed conditions upon the king, who had to accept Khalji as his ruler, pay tribute, and aid in the looting of the renowned treasure of Madurai.

Among these temples, the Hoysaleshwara, Jain Basadi, and Kedareshwara Temples stand out with their grandeur and exquisite architecture. In the immediate west of these temples, the royal abode of the Hoysalas once stood, now in ruins, scattered in broken mounds and fragments. Further to the west lie more temples, now also in a state of dilapidation. Another notable structure is the intricately crafted Hulikere Stepwell, originally designed exclusively for the queen. Beyond the fort, vast farmlands sustained the city's population and fueled its economy.

Today, Halebidu, with its splendid temples, intricate carvings, and captivating legends, stands as a timeless gem that illuminates the glorious history and cultural heritage of the Hoysala Empire. Its architectural brilliance continues to inspire awe and reverence, while its tales of devotion and love serve as a reminder of the enduring human spirit. As visitors wander through the hallowed precincts of Halebidu, they are transported to an era of artistic genius, cultural synthesis, and spiritual enlightenment, leaving an indelible impression on their souls.

Sometimes, the past shows us that although great empires may come to an end, their deeds echo eternally through the walls they constructed.

While the king could endure the initial blow, subsequent invasions devastated Dwarasamudra. The sun finally set on the dynasty that had once triumphed over the Cholas, Chalukyas, Kadambas, and Kalachuris. For three hundred years, Dwarasamudra slipped into oblivion. The local Hindu and Jain populations continued to farm and somehow support the decaying temples that had once hosted cultural conferences. When the Nayakas rediscovered the city three centuries later, it was no longer Dwarasamudra but Halebidu, the twice-destroyed metropolis of the Hoysalas.

Hoysaleshwara Temple By Bikashrd - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=51517539

Halebidu Inscription By Ms Sarah Welch - Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=109317800

The Hoysala Symbol By VikasHegde - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37988174

The Hulikere Step Well By Ms Sarah Welch - Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=109328987

The Hoysaleshwara Temple By Ashwin Kumar from Bangalore, India - Halebidu, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=52536675

A Hoysala Temple Ceiling By Bincymb - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=52699060