Coorg: A Tale of Hills and People

Alvin Thomas

Coorg: A Tale of Hills and People

Away from the bustle of cities, lies a town that is a breath of fresh air. Rich forests, mountains, waterfalls, and the blend of nature with its impressive history make it a land of stories that fill the air with awe for its unparalleled beauty and culture. This is the Scotland of India, Coorg.

The serene hills of Coorg (Source: Pinterest)

Cradled in the western ghats of Karnataka, Coorg is situated at an altitude above one thousand five hundred meters. Now a frequent destination for backpackers and travelers, Coorg was once a kingdom of its own, protected by its mountain slopes and tricky terrains. Originally known as ‘Kodagu’, the charming hill station has witnessed the rise and wither of several empires that dreamed of making Coorg their own. While many fell short in their advances, the ‘Paleri kingdom’ found the most success in comparison to its counterparts, as they were able to rule the promising land of Coorg for over two hundred years, from 1580 to 1834.

Between the eleventh and sixteenth centuries, the political nature of the region was extremely dynamic. Emperors came and were dethroned before they could get comfortable in their seats. When the mighty Vijayanagara empire fell, a transition began and it was then that the Paleri kings acclaimed the leadership over Coorg. Adorned with great rulers like Vira Raja, who was the first ruler of the Paleri dynasty, his grandson Muddu Raja I, and Dodda Vira Rajendra, who was the last ruler of the dynasty, Coorg flourished under the Paleri rule and achieved the status of an independent kingdom.

During their tenure, the major challenges that came their way were from the nearby kingdom of Mysore, led by Hyder Ali who started the conquest. He was followed up effectively by Tipu Sultan. Tipu marshaled his troops confidently through Coorg after an emphatic win over the British at Mangalore. In 1784, Tipu Sultan pledged allegiance to the French battalion and together defeated the Coorg army, following it up with forceful conversions to Islam.

Though subject to war at numerous points in their history, the people of Coorg, known as ‘Kodavas’ always expressed themselves and never gave up without putting up a strong fight. They usually resorted to guerilla warfare techniques and caught their enemies unaware, by hiding in the hilly terrain that flanked them. In fact, in the 1690s, when the Mysore army attacked Coorg, they were in for a bloody surprise as the Kodava warriors ambushed them from the mountains and killed about fifteen thousand soldiers, forcing them to retreat. The high-altitude terrain and an active way of life have made the people of Coorg extremely resilient and even today, they continue to fill the ranks in the Indian army.

After Tipu Sultan took over Coorg, the Kodavas managed to rescue Dodda Vira Rajendra, who was kept in captivity by the Mysore army. Along with him, they began their fight back and successfully raided many forts that were garrisoned by their enemies. He also decided to partner with the British and signed a treaty of friendship with the East India Company, agreeing to consider Tipu Sultan a common enemy. A long battle ensued and the Kodavas regained their kingdom.

Though several rulers came and went, Coorg has always managed to preserve an identity of its own. To date, its traditions are held in high regard by its people, who swell their chests in pride over their culture. The women of Coorg have always been revered and educated, and the Kodavas enjoy living spirited and content lives without having to worry about their neighbors or society.

Coorg also attracts people through its various wildlife sanctuaries, coffee plantations, and river Kaveri, which has its origins in the region and has become a hotspot for white water rafting. The thick bamboo trees, dense forests of Sandalwood, Teakwood, and Rosewood along with the widely spread paddy fields add to the richness of its biodiversity. However, over-tourism has plagued the hill station as the carrying capacity of the town is being burdened with the ever-growing number of tourists. Improper waste management, ecologically unsafe means of travel, and an absence of attention to sustainability have hampered the ecosystem of Coorg, much to the discontent of its residents. Corrupt political practices have also benefited the tinder industry, which along with the over-tourism phenomenon has led to a serious problem of deforestation.

For Coorg to remain the paradise it is, it has become imperative more than ever to fully grasp reality and check ourselves. Sustainability needs to be a top priority and all policies and schemes must cater to the preservation of the hill station. With a little conscious effort, Coorg can regain its glory and be once again a haven of natural beauty, emboldened by the progressive culture of the Kodavas.

Once the British came into Coorg as a potential alliance, the destiny of the hill town started to change. For the British who were missing home, the misty air and green landscape of Coorg laced with flora and fauna of many kinds resembled the mountainous country of Scotland. Mesmerized by its beauty, they introduced coffee plantations in the steep mountainsides. The slopes could not entertain any other form of vegetation and provided excellent shade to the coffee beans. Estates sprung up and the hills started to smell like coffee, attracting the attention of British elites who began to visit Coorg for a cool respite against the humid weather of the tropical country.

Though Coorg remained independent until 1834, disagreements eventually developed between the British officials and the Coorg kingdom. It led to a quick and bloody war that saw the British annexing the region to be a princely state. It remained under British rule until India gained independence in 1947, following which it was classified as a ‘C’ state with an elected government of its own. Much to the agony of the state and its people, it was merged with the state of Mysore in 1956 as part of a state reorganization activity, and later became a district of Karnataka.