Dak Bungalows - From Colonial Rest Houses to a Delectable Curry

Dak Bungalows used to be an important part of the British administrative system in India. Although these architectural marvels have lost their significance, their legacy has managed to survive in some other way. A traditional Bengali recipe, supposedly originating in Calcutta during colonial times, also goes by the name dak bungalow or dak bangla. Could there be a connection between the two?

Dak Bungalows were colonial-era rest houses. Image Source: The Citizen

The word bungalow immediately takes us to colonial times. Surrounded by sprawling gardens with exotic varieties of flowers and fruits, these marvelous single-story structures began to fill the landscapes of India in the nineteenth century as British rule strengthened. Structures identified as bungalows served as the residences of colonial officials and other Europeans, as well as administrative buildings and so on. In terms of their importance, 'dak bungalows' or dak bangla, as the locals called them, were hence, quite similar to other bungalows.

Ideally situated on all 'dak' or postal routes, these small yet impressive housing structures primarily served as free rest houses for weary mail runners and other colonial officials who rode miles on horseback to deliver important mail.  Not only that but these bungalows were also used by other travellers who sought cheap and comfortable accommodations. It was supposedly Lord Auckland, the governor-general of India between 1836 and 1842, who came up with the idea of dak bungalows built on the model of dharamshalas and caravanserais.

Unlike the colonial residential bungalows situated in the middle of the city, we would find dak bungalows, particularly on the outskirts, along small and big roadways, surrounded by forests and lush green trees. One could find these rest houses every 12-15 miles. Dak bungalows were a blessing to travelers who spent days on the road and were ever too grateful for having a roof over their heads.  A standard dak bungalow merely had two to three rooms with the most basic amenities. Some of them didn't even have running water or electricity inside. However, all of them had a place for the horses and servants to rest which is not surprising given their importance.

In British times, a chowkidar was in charge of these bungalows and he lived alone when there were no visitors around. At times, only the dancing shadows indicated any form of life in these isolated bungalows. Like a typical horror movie setup,  these places too earned a reputation for being haunted. Such superstitions were reinforced by the chowkidars. Even today if we go to places like these, we would come across these lonely souls who entertained visitors with ghost stories and wonderful food.

When they were still active, the dak bungalows were constructed in several parts of the subcontinent including Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh and West Bengal. A majority of them remain even today, albeit in a neglected state. Most of them have managed to survive without any renovations because they were made of locally available materials like wood and stones. Some of these dak bungalows are used as forest guest houses today and their earlier role in the postal system has ceased to exist. However, they have not completely lost their significance. Spooky tales of ghosts and a promise of a fun, peaceful stay at an old rustic British-era bungalow lure many tourists from far and near.

Dak Bungalow Chicken Curry was prepared for colonial mail runners. Image Source Slurrp

But that is not the only legacy of these post houses. In West Bengal, the memories of colonial dak bungalows and life in them survive in another way. Back when these bungalows were active, the caretakers took great care in providing comfort to the tired officials. They prepared delicious meals in country style using locally available fresh produce. A standard meal included steamed rice, dal, green salad, vegetable curry or a stir fry of veggies, chicken or mutton curry and a dessert. Several dishes like country captain chicken, and aloo keema cutlet became associated with these dak bungalows as a result. However, the most popular dish was the dak bungalow/dak bangla chicken curry. This chicken curry was specially prepared by adding aromatic spices, eggs and potatoes to it.

There is a saying that every time the caretakers heard the galloping sounds of a horse, they knew that a weary sahib was approaching and immediately began preparing the chicken dak bungalow curry.  Some argue that this recipe was created in one of the rest houses at Calcutta so the dak bungalow curry came to be associated with the Bengalis. It is also a dish that is especially familiar around the West Bengal region, although it is unknown to many local people today.

But those who know, continue to savor this Anglo-Indian recipe, by preparing it from time to time and enjoying it within the comforts of their homes. Weary travelers and galloping horses may not be there to give the alarm, but cravings surely motivate them to enjoy this rich delectable curry anytime they want.