From Ships to Spice: The Arrival of Chilies in India

Ever wondered what would occur if there were no chillies in our Indian cuisine? Is it even conceivable? Well, it wasn't long ago when we Indians remained oblivious to this exotic vegetable until the Portuguese introduced it to us towards the end of the 16th century.

Different types of Chilies, Source: The Telegraph

Chillies hold a sacred place in our cuisine. They are a culinary necessity, without which our food would lose its soulful spice. Whether it's the comforting embrace of our curries or the zesty thrill of our chaats, chillies are the heartbeat of our dishes. Now, let's take a moment to imagine a world where Pani Puri and Vada pavs are missing their fiery companion, thicki mirchi. Picture savouring curries and daals seasoned with nothing more than turmeric and salt. It would resemble the kind of simple, mild fare we typically reserve for fasting or recovery from illness.

What's fascinating is that India's love affair with chilli peppers is a relatively recent development. Just a few centuries ago, our taste buds were oblivious to the fiery kick of these peppers. Instead, we relied heavily on what we affectionately call ‘Black Gold’ – black pepper – to infuse our dishes with flavour and warmth. The introduction of chilli peppers to India was a story of exploration, trade, and culinary transformation, brought to us by none other than the intrepid explorer Vasco Da Gama.

In those bygone days, international trade was a far cry from the streamlined systems we have today. The primary mode of intercontinental travel was by sea, and these maritime routes were fiercely guarded by the Arabs, who monopolised trade. They imported exotic spices from India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, and other South Asian countries and exported them to European markets. Due to the extraordinary demand, the Arabs charged exorbitant prices for these precious spices. In those times, certain spices were considered as valuable as gold. Whenever curious souls inquired about the origins of these spices, the Arabs spun enigmatic tales to conceal their sources and safeguard their monopoly.

The Europeans, driven by the allure of these exotic spices, were determined to chart their own trade routes. Yet, these voyages were no small undertaking; they demanded considerable resources and unwavering determination, given the vast and unpredictable oceans. Christopher Columbus was one of the notable explorers who embarked on this journey, although his voyages inadvertently led him to North America instead of the coveted Indian shores. The breakthrough came when the Portuguese, refusing to be discouraged by earlier failures, discovered chilli peppers and brought them to Europe. Interestingly, while these fiery peppers were embraced in Portugal, they didn't gain the same level of popularity in Spain.

Portuguese in India, Source: Cultural India

The Portuguese, undeterred, continued their quest to establish a sea route to India. And it was Vasco da Gama who achieved this monumental feat in 1498. With his arrival on Indian shores, the saga of chilli peppers in the Indian subcontinent began. However, our love affair with chillies took time to flourish because of our deep-rooted attachment to black pepper.

The Portuguese were enamoured by the sophisticated markets and trading systems they encountered in India. They were determined to secure a complete monopoly over this valuable trade. This pursuit took several decades, during which they captured Goa, using it as a base for their operations. This historical intertwining laid the foundation for Goan cuisine, which today carries echoes of European influences alongside its Indian heritage.

Gradually, chilli peppers made their way to the southern regions of India. Legends tell of their introduction to North India during the 17th century when the Maratha ruler, Chhatrapati Shivaji, challenged the mighty Mughal Empire. According to folklore, it was the fiery temperament of the Maratha warriors, fuelled by their newfound love for chillies, that helped them emerge victorious against the Mughal forces. The Mughals, known for their passion for foreign flavours, contributed to the chilli's further spread across the entire Indian subcontinent.

Today, India proudly claims its position as the world's largest producer, exporter, and consumer of dried red chillies. With more than 400 distinct chilli pepper varieties worldwide, India's very own Bhoot Jolokia, or Ghost pepper, ranks among the world's hottest peppers. The chilli pepper, once a foreign curiosity, has not only spiced up our cuisine but also become an integral part of our cultural and culinary identity, infusing our dishes with layers of flavour, heat, and history.