From Shiva to Ganesha: The Journey of a Monolithic Marvel of the Pallava Kingdom

The Ganesh Ratha, a chariot carved from granite, was commissioned by the Pallava king Narasimhavarman I. The temple, initially dedicated to Shiva, underwent a captivating transition in the eighteenth century at the hands of the locals. What wonders does this remnant of the Pallava dynasty hold?

Ganesh Ratha. Source: Wikicommons/IM3847

On the coast of Tamil Nadu, not far from the bustling city of Chennai, lies the small shore town of Mahabalipuram. In this town, strewn amidst the hillocks and palm trees, on the shores of the Bay of Bengal, are the renowned monolithic monuments of the Pallava Dynasty. The complex of monolithic architecture is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. These are remains of a once prominent port city and a ceremonial center of the Pallava Dynasty.

The Pallava kingdom reigned between 275 CE to 897 CE and ruled over a significant portion of South India. Kanchipuram was the capital city, and the kingdom prospered from trade across Southeast Asia. The Pallava kings became patrons of architecture and laid the groundwork for rock-cut marvels, including the rathas comprising the complex in Mahabalipuram.

Pallava King Mahendravarman I is credited with introducing rock-cut architecture in South India. A pioneer of his time, he constructed several temples and monuments across the region. His son and successor, Narasimhavarman I, was a prominent king under whose reign the construction of the rathas in the city began. The city was also named Mamallapuram or Mahabalipuram after Narasimhavarman I, who was also known by the name Mamalla.

The monolithic architecture carved in pink granite, famously known as the seven pagodas, was carved in the form of rathas or chariots. The rathas are used for carrying the deities in procession during the festivities, even in the present day. The stone ratha is a replica of a wooden version and was never fully completed. Although called rathas, these monuments resemble an entire temple. They were carved from top to bottom, as the bottom areas are in an incomplete state. The Ganesha Ratha is the most complete monument at the site.

The Pallavas’ contribution to Hinduism, especially Brahminical and Sanskrit culture in South India, was prominent. Temples and monuments were dedicated to Vishnu and Shiva to promote Shaivism and Vaishnavism. Notably, the inscriptions on Ganesha Ratha are in Grantha and Nagari scripts in Sanskrit verses. The temple is named Atyantakama after the Pallava king. It is interesting to note that religion had significant influence on architecture. In the eighteenth century, with the revival of Vaishnavism, the Shiva idols were replaced by the locals with the Ganesh idols after receiving permission from the district collector of the time. British archaeologist and historian AH Longhurst attempted to install the Shiva Idol, which was not welcomed by the locals and was instead installed near a tree. The ratha is now called Ganesha Ratha.

The Ganesha Ratha is a cuboidal structure with a columned verandah. The entrance has two lion-based pillars and two lion-based pilasters. The motif of a lion is typical of Pallava architecture. The upper storey has a wagon roof with arched ends. The front is 20 feet long and 28 feet high. The kudu or gavaksha is a circular or horseshoe-shaped arch commonly found in rock-cut architecture. On the cornices of pillars, a human face appears to be peeping out from the kudu.

The site is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984 and looked after by the Archeological Society of India. The site has withstood the test of time and even natural calamities. Archaeological surveys conducted on the sea have revealed more structures and monuments that had submerged under water. The architectural prowess of the Pallavas has indeed been a significant part of India’s heritage that continues to enthrall visitors to the present day.

The trident atop the Ganesh Ratha tells that the temple was initially built for Shiva. Source: Wikicommons/ Samraj Clicks