Kalamkari: A Tale of Timeless Textile Art

Originating in Machhlipatnam, Andhra Pradesh, the art of Kalamkari is renowned worldwide for its vibrant colours and intricate designs. Hand-painted scenes from epics and Puranas can be found decorating a wide variety of fabrics.

Woman drawing Kalamkari | source: SootiSyahi

When one thinks of textiles, one inevitably thinks of India. India’s reputation in the textile industry has left an indelible mark on history, with trade routes and networks connecting the country to far-off lands. The demand for a particular textile, known as Kalamkari, has led us to this captivating story.

Kalamkari is an ancient form practised in the Deccan region, with its origins traced to the modern-day state of Andhra Pradesh. Machhilipatnam, formerly known as Masulipatrnam, in the Golconda region, is the epicentre of Kalamkari. The name itself is a fusion of two words: Kalam, meaning pen, and Kari, signifying art. Interestingly, Europeans were not familiar with this name; they referred to it as Chintz or Palampore, the latter being an anglicised misnomer for Palangposh, which translates to bed cover.

Craftsmen have continued to teach their generations about the importance of this art form through generations. In modern times, efforts have been made to diversify the materials used, transitioning from coarse cotton to fabrics like georgette and chiffon. Additionally, the application of Kalamkari has expanded from wall hangings to accessories and apparel.

The basic tools required for this art form are brushes, paint (dye), and cloth, although their usage is far from crude. Specialised tools, such as the Kalam or brush. A Kalam or this brush is made with natural materials. The precision and thickness of strokes depend on the brush's point. Traditionally, coarse cotton served as the canvas, but contemporary Kalamkari extends to various fabrics.

“Kalam, is an improvised brush made of bamboo stick pointed at one end and thick at the other. In the middle wool or jute yarn is tied around in the form of a ball and held by wrapping twine around it in a crisscross manner." (Source: Dr. M. Vasantha and Prof. Malini Divalka)

The hallmark of traditional Kalamkari is its bright and entirely natural colours. Yellow is extracted from pomegranate rind, blue from indigo, red from chay root, and black from iron fragments. The fabric is initially soaked in a solution of fruit and milk, giving it a yellowish tint. It is then dried and outlined with charcoal. Following this, the fabric is treated with an alum solution and subsequently soaked in red dye. The dyeing process demands meticulous attention, as synthetic dyes and printing machinery are not used. Handling the fabric with care is essential, as once the process is completed, it cannot be reversed.

One of the most recognisable motifs in Kalamkari is the 'Tree of Life'.

"Deeply rooted while growing towards the sky, it connects the heavens, earth and underworld. It is also a symbol of nourishment, with many animals feeding on its leaves, living in its branches and enjoying its shade.(source: laasyaart)"

Kalamkari extends beyond Golconda. In the region of Chitoor lies the temple town of Srikalahasti, where Kalamkari has evolved into a tapestry. As temples began to patronise this art form, it began to gain popularity and began incorporating religious elements. Motifs and depictions from epics found their way into Kalamkari designs.

While secular prints are in regular demand in Masulipatnam, the Srikalahasti craft of painting religious hangings has thrived. Despite attempts to modernise this craft, it is essential for people to recognise and understand its rich heritage. Kalamkari stands as a testament to India's enduring artistic traditions.