Karim's Mughal Descent : A Walk Through Of Its Famous Aloo Gosht

The sizzle of a pan, the careful splashes of an Indian wok (kadhai) when pakodas and kachoris are fried, the mixing of roohafza sherbet, the taste of Karim's mutton, the clink of kulhads as one indulges in adrak wali chai, the surprised faces of every eater as they taste the famous malai dudh in the lanes of Chandini Chowk; such is the life that exists in Old Delhi.

Karim's in Old Delhi. Image: Wikipedia

While food dominates the culture of Delhi, Old Delhi remains an all-time favourite for the natives as well as the tourists who visit the capital of India. Never have these congested lanes failed to satisfy the hunger and needs of a foodie. And while the foodie is pleasured, the inner historian is yearning to satisfy his hunger by knowing the story behind each place’s creation.

Another fascinating aspect of Old Delhi is that each restaurant or food stall has a history that dates back centuries. It is possibly from the time when Shahjahanabad was first built. Such places share the life and food of the Mughal era and help the descendants connect with their imperial rulers who once lived along the same streets we shop through.

Today, let us go down the memory lane of one such restaurant that lived through the Mughal Empire, colonial rule, and independent India and continues to dominate the minds and tastes of millions of humans in Delhi: Karims.

Other than the lavish lifestyle, rare gems that dominated the halls of the courts, and the intricately created robes and dresses for the Mughal emperors, the food palette of the Mughals was as rich as anything else. Spices were brought from far away lands, top-notch vegetables, and drinks that could drown one as they taste its rich flavours. Such food was very different from what the ordinary public ate. For them, food was a mode of survival not a way to satisfy their taste buds.

The cooks during the Mughals were aware of the secret ingredients, the cooking style, and the way the Emperors ate. During the mid-19th century, Mohammed Aziz was one of the cooks who created edible magic for the Mughal emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar. He worked as the royal cook and knew the ways to the emperor’s heart. However, in the aftermath of the First War of Independence, Bahadur Shah Zafar was exiled. This left the cook at a crossroads. He decided to move to Meerut and then to Ghaziabad.

For years, he kept his love for cooking alive. He wanted the masses to have an experience of royal taste and their food. He was able to fulfill his dream in 1911. This was the year when King George V decided to visit Delhi for his coronation. Aziz along with his son, Haji Karimmudin, decided to move back to Delhi and open up a stall where they could serve some Mughlai delicacies. For years, Aziz had trained his sons in the art of cooking food. Never did he imagine that one day his descendants were going to continue his legacy and become one of the most famous eateries in Delhi.

Haji opened up a dhaba that served two delicacies- Aloo Gosht and Daal which was served with romali roti. In 1913, the dhaba took a shape of a restaurant in the streets of Old Delhi by the name- Karim Hotel. Karimuddin passed on the legacy of his father down to his sons and this continues to date.

Currently, the fourth generation of Aziz is working and running the restaurant. Today, Karim is not just limited to Old Delhi but a multi-chain restaurant that has placed itself on the map of Delhi in various locations- Kailash Colony, Noida, Gurgaon, Dwarka, Kamla Nagar, and many more.

Karim sounds like heaven, does it not? Go enjoy the delightful delicacies in the nearest franchise to taste the Mughlai food Bahadur Shah Zafar once had.

A Chef cooking at Karim's. Image: Wikipedia