Khar and Assam

When a dish becomes synonymous with a people, it transcends being just a food item and becomes a symbolic embodiment of the community's way of life. For the Assamese, this iconic delicacy is Khar. The essence of Khar is an astringent liquid, also called Khar; a versatile substance indispensable in every Assamese home.

Khar, a signature delicacy of Assam; Image Source: Wikimedia Commons

We have all explored the internet looking for home remedies and stumbled upon superfoods hailed as solutions for everything from a common cold to cancer. A case in point is apple cider vinegar, which, thanks to the web, has gained popularity worldwide as an all-in-one cure for various ailments.

However, the use of superfoods is not new. In fact, such items were extremely essential in the past, at a time when modern medicine hadn’t developed, the world wasn't so interconnected, and the consumption-driven market didn’t exist.

The traditional equivalent of such a versatile and magical substance in Assam is Khar. But Khar, for the Assamese, is not just an ingredient. Khar is an emotion; it is nostalgia; it is, in fact, an identity.

Khar is an astringent liquid derived primarily out of the peels or stems of a specific variety of banana, Musa balbisiana Colla, known as bhim kol or athiya kol in Assam.  The process of making khar is a lengthy one: dried banana peels or stems are first burnt and the resulting ash is mixed with water and filtered to derive the liquid known as kolakhar. Khar can also be derived from other materials, like water hyacinth. This dark brown liquid has a long shelf life and is an indispensable element in every traditional Assamese household.

Process of preparing Khar; Image Source: Wikimedia Commons

A deeper look into the uses of Khar and its indispensability in Assam, tells us much about the history and culture of this region. During pre-modern times, Assam was an isolated yet self-sufficient region rich in natural resources. Socio-economically, the region was rural and agrarian in nature. Urbanisation was slow, and markets and consumption, in the modern sense, did not exist. Life here was rooted in living in harmony with nature and developing sustainable and ingenious solutions to everyday problems.

Khar has traditionally been used as a substitute for salt in Assamese cooking. In pre-modern times, the availability of salt in the Brahmaputra valley was limited. As Assam is landlocked, sea salt wasn’t available here, and the sources of rock salt in the Himalayas were fiercely controlled by the hill tribes. Salt was therefore a luxury item meant for the elite. For the common people, Khar, with its astringent taste, became a viable alternative for salt in the kitchen. However, the Assamese didn’t believe in using it indiscriminately in their cooking. According to Assamese culinary wisdom, Khar is not to be combined with sour or bitter ingredients, as it is believed that their properties clash.

Khar plays a vital role as a seasoning in signature dishes of the region, lending its name to the entire dish itself. For example, Khar prepared with papaya is called Amitar Khar; Khar prepared with split black gram is called Mati Mahor Khar; and so on. Khar, along with rice, is usually had as the first course in a traditional Assamese meal. It adds a delightful piquancy to the dish and has a very distinctive flavour. Due to its digestive properties, Khar is hailed as the ultimate palate cleanser.

Mati Mahor Khar; Image Source: Goya Journal

Beyond its culinary significance, Khar also possesses medicinal and therapeutic properties. In fact, several modern studies have established its antioxidant and anti-microbial benefits. In the past, Kharwas used as a shampooing agent to wash hair and also as a detergent for washing clothes. When added to mustard oil and garlic, it becomes a potion to treat a common cold. Khar is also believed to be beneficial for people suffering from high blood pressure and heart disease. A certain study also cursorily refers to Khar as helpful in treating fertility-related conditions in men!

Khar's significance extends beyond the kitchen and the household. Khar has also been traditionally used as a pesticide in farming in the region. It is believed to contribute to balancing the acidic levels in the soil.

Khar is like a superhero ingredient in Assamese life: adding flavour to dishes, boosting gut health, fighting off diseases, and even protecting crops. It's no surprise that the Assamese proudly call themselves "Khar Khowa Asomiya," meaning people who love their Khar. This super-substance has truly made its mark in every aspect of life in Assam.