MEKHELA CHADOR: Weaving Threads of Tradition and Beauty in Assam

This story will transport readers to the enchanting realm of Assam, delving into the beauty of its traditional attire, the Mekhela Chador. Exploring its rich history, diverse variations, and the inherent charm of its two-piece elegance, this tale encapsulates the essence of Assamese culture.

Celebrated Indian Actresses Graced in Assamese Traditional Attire, Mekhela Chador | Image Source: Pinterest.

Mekhela Chador is one of the most renowned traditional dresses worn by Assamese women in India. Interestingly, it has managed to maintain its popularity despite evolving fashion trends. Its prominence can be traced back to the time when it was closely associated with the kings of the Ahom rule from the 13th to the 19th century. While Mekhela Chador may bear a resemblance to a saree, they are very different. A saree is a single long piece of fabric that is draped around the body, whereas mekhela chador consists of two separate pieces. Although these attires can appear similar at times, it becomes necessary to emphasize and preserve the dissimilarity between them.

The Mekhela Chador, a traditional women's attire, comprises the Mekhela and the Riha. The Mekhela acts as a waist girdle, tailored to fit by adjusting its circumference, while the Riha serves as a breast band, often replacing a blouse. To wear the Mekhela Chador, one end of the Riha is tucked into the waist, wrapped around the waist and chest, and the other end is secured at the back. To enhance its elegance and modesty, a 'Challeng' or 'Chador' may be draped around the body. The Chador itself can be plain or adorned with decorative butis (motifs), showcasing a prominent, intricately designed border on the anchal (pallu), with narrower yet equally detailed borders on the other sides.

The Two-Piece Assamese Beauty | Image Source: Instagram/Preetykkongana

The silk industry in India predominantly operates within the agro-based sector. India holds the second-highest global position in silk production, with a significant monopoly in Muga silk. For centuries, the North-Eastern region, especially Assam, has cultivated mulberry (pat), muga, and eri silk, deeply rooted in its tradition of sericulture. The rearing of these silkworms plays a vital role in providing economic support to the largely rural population of Assam. This practice extends across more than 10,532 villages, generating employment for approximately 260,000 families. Assam stands out as the leading producer of muga and eri silk in the country.

The story of silk production dates back to the Brahmaputra valley, where the larvae of the Assam Silk moth feed on aromatic leaves of the 'som' tree (Machilus bombycina) and 'sualu' Muga silk is unique because it has to be dyed after bleaching. Further, the lustre of Muga silk enhances with every hand wash. This exquisite silk is commonly used in the production of products such as saris, mekhelas, and chadors.

Muga Silk | Image Source: Pinterest and Instagram/abhishrutibez

Pat silk is derived from the cocoons of Bombyx textor silkworms that primarily feed on mulberry (Morus spp.) leaves. Morus is a genus of flowering plants within the Moraceae family. Pat silk is characterized by its white or off-white colour and is renowned for its durability and glossy texture. This type of silk finds its application in the creation of mekhelas, chadors, and other textiles.

Pat Silk | Image Source: Pinterest and Instagram/tanjil_tamuli

Eri silk, also known as Endi or Errandi silk, is produced from the cocoons of Samia cynthia ricini. It is a type of moth cultivated especially for silk fabric production. These moths feed on the leaves of the castor oil plant. What sets Eri silk apart is its manufacturing process which allows the pupae to complete their life cycle and emerge as adult moths. Consequently, only open-ended cocoons are used to obtain the silk. Eri silk finds common usage in the creation of shawls and quilts.

Eri silk. Image Courtesy: Pinterest

The Assam Silk Industry finds its abode in Sualkuchi, a census town nestled in the Kamrup district of Assam, India. Sualkuchi has gained eminence as the "Manchester of Assam," owing to its multitude of cottage industries dedicated to the art of handloom. During the era of the Ahom dynasty, the silk garments crafted in Sualkuchi captured widespread acclaim, embodying a regal emblem associated with royal favour. Thus, Sualkuchi ascended as the epicentre of silk weaving, perpetuating a legacy that dates back to the 17th century and establishing itself as the paramount hub of Assam's silk handloom industry.

In conclusion, the Mekhela Chador stands as a timeless symbol of Assamese tradition and grace. Its popularity has endured the test of time. As Assam's cultural legacy continues to flourish, Mekhela Chador remains an iconic symbol of tradition and elegance. It serves as a reminder of the craftsmanship and artistry that has been passed down through generations. With its timeless appeal, the Mekhela Chador preserves the essence of Assamese culture and continues to be a treasured heritage of the region.