Nihari’s Red Stew: A Staple Mughal Breakfast

Food has been one of the major contributing factors in making the Mughals, one of the best empires that ever existed. Each recipe and curation of a dish has years of legacy and tradition that are still being followed by many families. The Nihari of the Mughals is one that stayed on and spread in Pakistan and Bangladesh after the partition. What is Nihari, and what is the speciality of this buttery red stew? `

Nihari with Khameeri ki roti. Image Sources: Crazy Masala Food

The combination of Nalli Nihari with Khameeri ki roti (traditional Indian bread made of yeast, wheat and milk) is an emotion in itself. The soft sponge of the roti sipped in the red stew of soft mutton with a buttery texture is an experience that everyone should try at least once in their life. But, did you know that Nalli Nihari was the breakfast dish of the Mughals? 

Nihari comes from an Arabic word called nahaar which means morning. It is believed that the Mughal nobles used to wake up early in the morning for their morning prayers-Fajr. After their offering to Allah, the nobles used to sit down for a hearty breakfast of Nihari. Since Nihari was a heavy dish, with lots of protein, the nobles used to take a nap after breakfast, waking up during the next set of prayers. 

There is speculation on the origin of Nihari. Many scholars believed that Nihari came to be made during the reign of Shah Jahan. Many hakims of the royal court suggested Nihari as one of the best dishes for the general well-being of the royals. It was to be cooked with various spices and herbs including Fenugreek seeds and turmeric that had healing powers. It became a home remedy that could treat fever, common cold, and rhinorrhea. It soon became the staple breakfast meal for the royals due to its immaculate taste with great health benefits. 

While one belief was of its origin in the courts of Shah Jahan, another set of records argues that Nihari originally originated in the courts of Awadh and not Delhi. The process of cooking a Nihari included an all-nighter where cooks used to slowly cook the meat of either beef, lamb or chicken in large vessels called shab deg, a vast variety of spices including cumin, cardamom, cloves and garam masala were used for the cooking of the meat. Since it took a whole night for it to be fully prepared, it was served fresh at the crack of the dawn for the royals and later the commons. 

Due to the culmination of various spices and herbs, the protein and flesh of the freshly prepared meat became a source of energy for the nobles of the Mughals. The labouring class had to work day and night and needed something that would keep them energized while providing their tongues with a hint of taste. Nihari became that one dish that could keep their tastebuds happy while ensuring they remained healthy and energized. 

Nihari is a winter dish that ties the morning of the chilly months of December and January together. With piping hot meat and equally soft roti, one can get the essence of the Mughal taste in food even centuries later. 

Making of Nihari in Old Delhi. Image Source: Hindustan Times