Pashmina- A dearly beloved product

The state of Jammu and Kashmir has given many gifts to this world. Be it the Kashmiri wazwan, cultural varieties or the pashmina, the richness only increases. The Pashmina products exported from the Kashmir valley are not only sought after in India, but their intricate design, warmth, and lightness despite their rich quality attract buyers globally.

Story of Pashmina. Illustrated by Miloni Munipally: Visual Storyteller at ThisDay

Almost all of us would've heard about Pashmina shawls. Primarily because each winter, when our mothers would take us shopping, the shopkeeper would show us each shawl and convince us to buy the Pashmina.

One of the fondest memories I have of buying pashmina shawls with my mother is that of the ring test the shopkeeper conducted. How effortlessly did that shawl pass through the small loop! But then, when I heard the price, the eight-year-old me was convinced that such luxury must have only been once enjoyed by the wealthy.

So what's unique about Pashmina? The wool is obtained from the Changthangi goats found in the higher regions of Ladakh. Since Pashmina was an expensive fabric, in the Mughal courts, emperors would often bestow honour upon their subjects and ministers by giving them robes made of Pashmina.

The Goats shed their undercoats in springs that are collected by the Changpa (a nomadic tribe and traditional producers of Pashmina). The raw Pashmina is exported throughout Kashmir till it reaches the centres of production where the finished product is assimilated.

When Akbar conquered Kashmir, Pashmina shawls became an essential part of the khil'at ceremonies. Due to its expensive nature, Pashmina products were owned by the elites.

Pashmina is not limited to shawls. Some people possess saris and even blankets made out of Pashmina. As Pashmina became dearer, it became a symbol of prestige and wealth. Then soon came a time when it became customary for a bride to carry Pashmina shawls as dowry.

In most cases, Pashmina shawls became family heirlooms that the girl inherited. Surprisingly, Westerners too caught up with Pashmina, thanks to Empress Josephine Bonaparte. When Napoleon Bonaparte presented her with a pashmina shawl, she was delighted and spent enormous amounts to procure as many Pashmina shawls.

All in all, Pashmina has been a part of Indian society for a very long time. Its dearness and impeccable finesse show how the artisans weave intricate patterns with such care that it brings even the plainest clothing to life. Even though it might be expensive, the efforts that go into producing pashmina products are unparalleled.

Brightly coloured and intricately woven Pashmina Shawls. Image source: Maps of India