Phanek: A Cultural Identity of Meitei Women

The Phanek, a traditional garment worn by women of the Meitei tribe in Manipur, is more than just a piece of clothing. It is a symbol of the women's hardworking nature, simplicity, and power. Handwoven in silk or cotton, the Phanek comes in block colors or stripes and is often accompanied by an upper cloth and blouse, worn as a partial sari.

Different kinds of Phanek. Credits with LeitengManipuri

The beauty of traditional costumes lies not only in their intricate designs but also in the cultural history they carry with them. One such costume is the Phanek, an integral part of Manipuri culture and identity. It is a matter of pride for the Meitei tribe, where women wear it as a symbol of their strength, hard work, and simplicity.

The Phanek is a type of wraparound skirt, usually made of handwoven silk or cotton, adorned with stripes or block colors. It is typically worn as a partial sari with a blouse and an upper cloth. The ones used for casual wear are bright and colorful, while the formal ones, known as Mayek Naibi, have elegant stripes. The borders feature intricate motifs created using the classic extra weft technique or embroidery, with each tribe having its unique style to distinguish one from the other. The patterns come with legends attached to them, and the weaving process transforms them into intricate designs.

But the Phanek is more than just a garment. It is a symbol of power and strength for Manipuri women. It is a part of their cultural identity, and they wear it with pride, whether on an everyday basis or special occasions. The Meitei women spend their days and nights on the loom, weaving Phaneks to earn a few extra bucks, often to educate their sons and daughters. The process is done on a loin-loom, a back-strap loom used by natives of the hilly terrain. Despite the convenience of modern fly-shuttle looms, the loin loom provides a reasonable width and ease of access.

The weaving process is simple and adapted for domestic use. The warp is set to an adequate length and tied to the waist of the weaver with a cloth or a leather belt, and the prepared weft is fastened to a wall. Weaving is a basic skill that most Manipuri women posses and the loom is also a part of what she takes to her in-laws' place after marriage. While women weave for personal use, men often take up Phanek weaving for commercial purposes.

The Phanek is not only a source of income for Manipuri women but also a reflection of their hardworking nature and simplicity. It is a tribute to their unwavering spirit, as they wear it during protests, where it brings out their valor. The Phanek is a reminder of their roots and cultural identity, and they wear it with pride wherever they go.

However, in recent years, the demand for traditional tribal weaves has declined due to globalization and the rise of modern fashion. Many artisans have drifted away from the craft, and the number of looms has dropped significantly. To revive this dying art form, Phanek weaves are being incorporated into modern clothing like shirts, scarves, stoles, and waistcoats to appeal to younger generations.

The Phanek represents the essence of Manipuri culture, and its significance cannot be understated. It is a testament to the resilience of Manipuri women, who, through their hard work and determination, have preserved their cultural heritage for generations. It is a symbol of their identity, their strength, and their unwavering spirit.

It is a cultural and historical symbol that reflects the beauty and complexity of Manipuri culture. Its intricate designs and motifs are a tribute to the hardworking women of Manipur who have dedicated their lives to preserving their cultural heritage. By incorporating Phanek weaves into modern clothing, we can ensure that this art form continues to thrive and evolve, preserving its cultural significance for future generations.