Samaithu Paar: Tamil Handbook for Cooking

Samaithu Paar, which translates to Cook and See, is a Tamil cookbook by S. Meenakshi Ammal. Over the course of more than six decades, this cookbook has successfully retained its appeal. But what was so peculiar about this cookbook that escalated its popularity? How did this cookbook become a household name in the South Indian community? The journey of this cookbook is as interesting as the cooking instructions it carries within.

This Samaithu Paar copy was bought in the 1970s for seven rupees; Image Source: Scroll

In India, S. Meenakshi Ammal was a pioneer in the field of cookbook authoring. She forged a new path by publishing the first volume of her renowned Samaithu Paar in Tamil back in 1951 when cookbooks were still not a common or acceptable genre in Indian publishing. This book, whose title literally means "cook and see," was written as a handbook for newlyweds who were setting up their own homes. This book was quickly devoured, and there was a high demand for more of this type of direction. Accordingly, Meenakshi Ammal released two additional volumes of Samaithu Paar. While the third volume concentrated on numerous celebrations and their preparations, the second volume dealt with additional recipes. This cookbook has become a staple in many households, not only in Tamil Nadu but also in other parts of India and abroad. The book is a testament to the author's culinary skills and knowledge of traditional South Indian cuisine.

Ammal's granddaughter-in-law is keeping up the tradition by publishing two more volumes that feature more dishes.

The birth and journey to fame weren’t easy for Samaithu Paar. Meenakshi Ammal, a widow taking care of her son and her husband’s family, was a much sought-after cook. In any community wedding or festivities, her recipes and pieces of advice would be making rounds. In some way, we can call her a micro-cooking celebrity in her community who is an authority figure when it comes to cooking, especially Brahmin South Indian cuisine. Observing this, her uncle Rao Bahadur K V Krishnaswami Iyer, a well-known attorney in Chennai recommended to her that she might save a lot of labour if she collected the recipes into a book. Samaithu Paar was thus born.

Although the book caught on to its popularity with time, it wasn’t easily attained. From publication to the distribution and restocking of Samaithu Paar, Ammal faced a lot of discouragement and troubles. Her son and his wife were the driving forces that motivated Ammal to be tenacious and unrelenting during the publication of the cookbook. In addition to this, they were the ones that made sure bookstores restocked the copies of the book.

Three volumes of Samaithu Paar; Image Source: Tribute to Cooking

Samaithu Paar is a comprehensive cookbook that covers a wide range of dishes from South Indian cuisine. The book is divided into different sections, such as rice dishes, sambar and rasam, vegetables, chutneys and pickles, snacks, sweets, and so on. The author has carefully listed the ingredients and the cooking method for each recipe in a simple and easy-to-follow format.

One of the most striking features of Samaithu Paar is the author's attention to detail. The book not only provides recipes, but also gives valuable tips on how to cook different types of rice, the right proportion of spices to be used in different dishes, the use of different types of cookware, and so on. The instructions are sometimes stern and stoic as if coming from whosoever is teaching you to cook in real-time. This attention to detail has helped readers not only cook the dishes listed in the book but also to improvise and come up with their own variations.

Another notable feature of Samaithu Paar is the author's emphasis on using fresh and natural ingredients. She stresses the importance of using fresh vegetables and spices, which not only enhance the flavor of the dishes but also have numerous health benefits. This emphasis on using natural ingredients has helped to popularize traditional South Indian cuisine, which is known for its simplicity, nutritional value, and health benefits.

Samaithu Paar has become a cultural icon in Tamil Nadu, and its popularity has spread to other parts of India and abroad. The book has been translated into several languages, including English, and has been reprinted several times. It’s a classic cookbook that has stood the test of time. It has not only helped to preserve traditional South Indian cuisine but also popularized it among a wider audience.