Shisha Embroidery: Fabric Glass Art that Rose from Streets

Shisha embroidery, now a common yet beloved form of embroidery in contemporary times, has a history that traces back to the Mughal era. This cloth art form, with its sparkling mirrors attached to the fabric, originated due to the stark disparity between the elite and common people.

Shisha embroidery on a sari I Source: Pinterest, Flickr

The allure of sparkling stones and colourful glass beads adds a touch of creative exoticness to fabrics. India is not only rich in fabric art but also home to the finest and most exotic embroideries that enhance the value and status of the fabric.

During the Mughal era, India experienced its Renaissance, as the Mughals brought new art and culture, adding to the country's richness. The  Mughals had an inclination towards everything shimmering, introducing sparkling diamonds and crystals to India's royal vanity. There was a suppliant increase in the n the variety of art introduced by the Mughals, the treasures of the far east was much visible in the royal outfits and portraits commissioned by the royals.

Moreover, every talent and form of art was recognised and appreciated at the royal court. Though rank and status were prominent concepts in Mughal society, all were equal when it came to art, as it was considered to be directly connected to spirituality and divinity. One such sparkling fabric art is Shisha embroidery, which thrived during 17th-century Mughal India and became a beloved form of fabric art with its unique craftsmanship.

‘Shisha’, is the Persian word for ‘mirror’. In this embroidery style, a small and twisted glass of different shapes, typically one inch long, is stitched onto the fabric to create a mesmerising 3D pattern. Colourful threads of satin and cotton secure the small mirrors, crafting beautiful scenes on the cloth. Nowadays, Shisha embroidery has expanded its usage to create beautiful rugs, curtains, and tapestries.

But how did this art come into being? Ironically, it was not an idea but a need for inclusion. The creation of Shisha embroidery arose from the lower class’s desire to emulate the dressing sense of the upper class during 17th-century India. The rich symbolised exoticness and variety, evident in their shiny and lavish clothing.

Before Shisha became a tradition, the clothes of the rich were embellished with sparkling stones and small jewellery. Little did they know that replacing these jewels with small and inexpensive reflective objects could elevate the appeal and status of a plain piece of fabric. The poor, through simple experimentation, invented this tradition, giving rise to the mesmerising embroidery art of Shisha.

Shisha on the bedsheet I Source: Pinterest, Priya

In contemporary India, particularly in southwestern Asia, Shisha remains a beloved embroidery art. Gujarat has been flourishing as the hub of Shisha craftsmanship for decades, offering two varieties of Shisha art: Kutchi and Kathiawari. Kutchi embroidery relies on round chain stitches to depict scenes of folklore and mystical fairytales, while Kathiawari uses long stitches to create patterns on the cloth.

Tribal communities in Central India have also embraced Shisha embroidery, making it a source of livelihood. The Banjara and Rabari communities excel in this art, using shiny natural reflectors as their jewels, creating a unique discourse in the art. Today, Shisha embroidery holds a distinguished place in India's traditional art and craft milieu, symbolising a rich history and shimmering present. From its humble origins in the streets of medieval India to securing large international orders, the art of Shisha embroidery has come a long way.