Talatalghar

Adrita

Talatalghar

The bustling city of Sivasagar in Assam, Northeast India is home to the vestiges of a glorious era in Assam history. The city has a number of significant structures built by the Ahoms, who were one of the longest ruling dynasties in not only in Assam but whole of India They ruled over the Brahmaputra valley for nearly 600 years. The Ahoms' architectural legacy is a reflection of their resources and power, as well as their artistic sensitivities and aesthetic vision. So, here's an attempt to take you on a journey through history of the grandest and largest of all the Ahom monuments – the Talatal Ghar.

Talatal Ghar (captured by : Adrita Buragohain)

Built in 18th century, the Talatal ghar or the Rangpur Palace is situated in Rangpur that is 4 kilometres away from Sivasagar, Assam. According to historical findings, Rangpur used to be the last capital city of the Ahom Kingdom and was established during the 17th century by Swargeo Rudra Singha who shifted it from Garhgaon. He is also credited with establishing the "permanent phase of non-religious architecture in Assam," as hitherto the only religious constructions (such as temples) in this region were made of stone.

The word ‘talatal’ means “multi-storey” which is the perfect description of this building. It is actually a subterranean barracks, and Swargadeo Rudra Singha ordered the initial construction of the palace in 1698 AD. Later modifications in the shape of a couple of more stories were added by Rajeswara Singha, Rudra Singha's successor, transforming the Talatal Ghar into an elegant and absolutely stunning seven-storey royal mansion. Kareng Ghar refers to the higher stories, while Talatal Ghar refers to the lower underground floors.

The Kareng Ghar was mostly made of wood, which rotted away over time. The Royal quarters were on the upper floor, near an octagonal room on the northern wing that previously served as the Puja Ghar, of which only a few rooms survive now (prayer house). The terrace is accessible by stairs. On the south, a secluded room is thought to have been occupied by the queen during her confinement. Stables, storerooms, and servant quarters were located on the lower floors.

The Talatal Ghar was built with the intention of serving as an administrative centre and a base for the army. It has two secret tunnels that are three levels below ground level. These were used as escape routes during Ahom's wars with neighbouring kingdoms. One of them is connected to the Dikhow River at a distance of 3km while the other one is connected to the Garhgaon Palace which is 16km away from there.

A fascinating aspect about this magnificent structure is that it was constructed entirely of organic resources, such as bricks and an indigenous sort of cement which was a mixture of Bora Chaul - a sticky variety of rice grain - eggs of swan, etc. The fact that this edifice has stood tall and robust for millennia is such an earthquake prone area is quite remarkable.

The bricks used in the monument came in a variety of shapes and sizes. The structure's pillars feature round ornate circular bases with angular zig zag motifs on some of them. These designs were formed out of bricks that were specially shaped and prepared into angular shapes for the purpose, rather than being sculpted after the pillars were set.

The Talatal Ghar is shrouded in mystery and curiosity and in more than one way this magnificently designed monument lives up to its name. “Tala Nala Herua” is an Assamese phrase that means "confused or disoriented." Without proper supervision, navigating the Talatal Ghar's complex interiors may prove difficult for a first-time visitor. Several optical illusions built into the structure's design work to perplex and pervert one's sense of direction.

Numerous identical doors and arches may be found on the monument's bottom floor. Several sets of archways are positioned in an angular pattern so that just when you believe you've reached a wall (and the tunnel has come to a stop), a new series of entrances and passages open up on the side, making the construction appear seamless. The number of windows is limited, and the doorways are low, causing one to squat every time one enters. One of the optical illusions features a partially opened doorway whose gap miraculously shrinks as one approaches it. A built-in acoustic effect enables even the quietest whispers to return many times louder in some areas of the structure.

A Gola Ghar, or royal armoury, is located near the main structure and was built in the do-chala style. The entire complex is enclosed by a brick wall or Garh (of which only fragments are visible now) and a Garh Khawoi, which is a ditch/moat that used to be filled with water. Another famous legend surrounding the monument is that one of the building's walled chambers (above ground) conceals a Rajbharal, or the Ahoms' royal treasury, which contains vast wealth even today.

Nowadays, visitors are only allowed to go to the ground floor, first level, and what remains of the second and third floors. The entry to the underground levels has been sealed off. The Talatal Ghar serves as a visible reminder of the rich Assamese culture and heritage. The convoluted passages of this edifice entice people to imagine themselves at a time when this powerful dynasty ruled the plains and hills surrounding the Brahmaputra. It should definitely be on the bucket list of history bluffs and architecture enthusiasts.