Tarua: Proving Vegetables Are Anything But Boring!

Tarua, a traditional dish from the Mithila region, is often mistakenly referred to as "Pakoda" outside Bihar. However, it is not just an evening snack or an accompaniment to tea, it is part of a full-course meal and is very significant in the culture of the Mithila region.

Maithili new year thali, Tarua at the top; source: Pinterest

There is a saying in the Mithilanchal region that the welcoming of a guest is not complete without serving a meal with Tarua, showing the importance this dish holds in the culinary tradition of the Mithila region.

Tarua, also known as Bachka, is a dish made of thinly sliced vegetables which are then coated with a batter made of rice /gram flour and spices and then deep fried. The dish is very popular in the Mithila region which covers northern districts of Bihar in India and some parts of Nepal. The dish is often mistaken to be the same as the North Indian pakodas or fritters but as Biharis insist, they are not the same and they even take offence on this remark.

There is a tradition throughout India of eating fried dishes, and a plethora of pakodas are found here made from vegetables to lentils, Bihar also has its share of it. But Tarua is slightly different, even tho in some households the method of cooking is the same as pakodas. The batter used here is made of Arba rice flour and some spices, giving the dish a spicy and strong flavour. Gram flour is also used in the batter at times. The method of frying the Tarua can differ, some households choose to pan fry the sliced and coated vegetables on tawa which is used to make chapatis, while some deep fry it in the wok which then resembles more with the pakodas.

Popular vegetables that are used to make Tarua are—  potatoes, cauliflower, okra, brinjal pumpkin, various flowers, and even the commonly disliked vegetables like bitter gourds, parwal, sponge gourd, etc. Basically, any vegetable can be made into Taruas, making them more appetising. But one that really stands out is the essential of Maithili culture, Tilkor Tarua. It is usually thought of as a palate cleanser. Some other unconventional variations include Taruas made of river shrimps and small fishes.

Tilkor leaves being dipped in the batter; source: Canditreat

It is very difficult to say when this dish was invented as there is no particular source talking about it. But some similar dishes can be found in the classics of Maithili literature talking about the food habits of the region in the past. As the culinary traditions of a region are shaped by the geography and culture,  in the Mithila region of Bihar there is a tradition of eating a lot of vegetarian food and there are a variety of dishes which are fried in some kind of batter so the idea of Tarua can also be traced from there.

Also, Tarua is not an everyday dish as it is usually prepared on special occasions and even offered to the deity. On the night of Diwali, a full dinner with more dishes than usual is prepared and Tarua is the highlight of this meal, it is offered to the deity first before family members can dine. Similarly on the eve of the completion of Chhath Puja, when the vrati[one who fasts] breaks her fast, her meal has to include Tarua. Later that day, when friends and relatives come to eat prasad, they are served Tarua.

Tastewise also, the dish is quite complete on its own and can replace all the curries and savoury dishes on the plate; in fact, rice, daal and Tarua are considered to be a favourite comfort meal of the locals. Hence, it can be seen how deeply integrated this dish is in the Maithili culture, Bihar and now becoming popular outside the region as people travel and take their culture and food with them. Its importance is apparent by the fact that this dish is even used to make offerings to the deity when usually the offerings consist of sweet dishes.