The Carved Glory of the Hoysaleswara Temple

Pragya Nagar

The Carved Glory of the Hoysaleswara Temple

One of the largest temples in South India, the Hoysaleswara temple is the epitome of Hoysala art and architecture. Located in Halebidu in Karnataka, what wonders does this place of worship hold?

Entrance to the temple; Source: Glorious Karnataka

Halebidu, located in Karnataka's Hassan District, was the capital of the great Hoysala Empire. The Hoysalas ruled much of modern-day Karnataka, as well as parts of Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu, during the eleventh and fourteenth centuries. The Hoysala era contributed significantly to the growth of arts and culture, as well as spiritual and humanistic philosophy.

The pillage and plunder of an already weakened Hoysala Empire ended with the surrender of Ballala III, following which the capital city was abandoned, earning the moniker Halebindu, meaning “old town.” During their rule, the Hoysalas built over 1500 temples across their kingdom, only a few hundred of which still remain today. The Hoysaleswara temple, also known as the Halebidu temple, is one of them. The temple, together with the surrounding ruins and other ancient temples, has been designated as a protected monument and is on the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Built during the reign of the renowned King Vishnuvardhana (1108–1152 CE), the temple marks the zenith of art and architecture the Hoysala Empire reached in the twelfth century. The temple uses dark-hued soapstone for elaborately carved sculptures and carvings that adorn its entire outer structure. These sculptures are rich in religious and cultural iconography, depicting gods and goddesses, wars and victories, dance and music, hunting, sports, processions, as well as the costume, jewellery, and daily life of characters, along with scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Bhagavatham. The soapstone of the temple was mined nearby and is particularly soft when first quarried, hardening on contact with air.

The complex, which is primarily dedicated to Lord Shiva, exhibits influences from Vaishnavism, Shaktism, and Jainism. Although the current temple entrance is on the north, the Hoysaleswara temple was built to face east to a small shrine devoted to the solar deity, Surya. The temple has two sanctums, one for Hoysaleswara and the other for Shantaleswara (named after Shantala Devi, the wife of King Vishnuvardhana). Both shrines are adjacent to each other on a high platform and are guarded by Nandi, the vehicle and ardent follower of Shiva.

The Hoysaleswara Temple, which currently appears flat from the top, is believed to have had two tall superstructures that were supposedly demolished during the invasion by the Delhi Sultanate, following which the temple fell into a period of ruin and dilapidation due to neglect and pillage.

The temple premises also include a museum. It is managed by the Archaeological Survey of India and consists of several archaeological remains that were discovered around the temple.

A statue of Lord Ganesha is found near the main temples. Then there's a Garuda Stambha to the south of the temple, which is a particularly eye-catching edifice. Garudas were believed to be the kings' and queens' chosen protectors; they used to live and move with the royalty for the purposes of defending their master. The inscription honours Kuruva Lakshma, a bodyguard of Veera Ballala II. Acoording to an old Kannada inscription on the pillar, he was a devoted officer who took his life and that of his wife and other bodyguards after the death of his master.

The Hoysaleswara Temple is filled with motifs, inscriptions, and works of art that depict life of the time. There are around 340 larger and distinct reliefs depicting religious and mythical stories, while the smaller sculptures, motifs, and friezes below connect the narratives pictorially.

The interiors of the temple are rather plain, with the exception of the lathe-turned pillars that stand in rows flanked by the north and south doors. The four pillars in the centre of each temple are the most elaborate with madanika statues in their brackets. The massive temple includes four porches that functioned as entrances; presently, only the northern porch is open for entry.

The 'Sunakasi' superstructure on the shrines, which used to be a row of decorated miniature roofs on top of the hall's attics, is in a dilapidated condition. Even the shrine towers have vanished. The temple was built at a height that provided enough horizontal and vertical room to display both big and tiny sculptures.