The First Portuguese Fort of India

On a shoreline in the city of Kochi are the ruins of what once was a stronghold. What all do the remnants of the first European fort on Indian soil speak of?

The Remaining Part of the Gunnery at the Fort (Source- Incredible India )

On the cusp of the modern era, India witnessed numerous European nations approaching her doorsteps. The city of Cochin (presently Kochi) was the first European settlement in India. Over the years, Cochin was subject to the Portuguese, Dutch, and British colonizers, all of which formed and contributed to the city's character. The Portuguese, who were the first to set foot in Cochin, had a significant impact on the city's culture, art, architecture, language, and food. It is no surprise that several places in the city have names with Portuguese etymological roots. Fort Emmanuel, built in the sixteenth century, is one such example. The historical monument, which is located in Ernakulam, Kerala, was built by the Portuguese to safeguard their interests in India. It served as a fortress for the Portuguese and symbolized the strategic partnership between the Maharaja of Cochin and the Kingdom of Portugal. An imposing structure along the beach, its stately, solemn ruins are a reflection of the vestiges of Portuguese royalty and the architectural finesse of that time.

The story goes that around 1500 AD, Calicut was ruled by Zamorin, and Cochin was ruled by the Veerakerala Varma, believed to be the first maharaja of Cochin. This was the period when the first Portuguese sailors arrived on the Malabar Coast: Vasco da Gama at Calicut and Pedro Álvares Cabral at Cochin. The port at Calicut maintained a superior economic and political position on the medieval Kerala coast, while Kannur, Kollam, and Kochi were commercially important secondary ports where traders from all over the world would congregate. Legend has it that the Portuguese were welcomed by the ruler of Cochin. After negotiating a deal with the monarch, the Portuguese progressively expanded their control and created the first European metropolis in India, Santa Cruz City. The popular narrative then is that the Zamorin of Calicut, enraged and irritated by the alliance between the Veerakerala Varma and the Portuguese, dispatched a fleet from Calicut to crush Varma in the absence of the Portuguese in 1503. The ruler was vanquished and fled to an island. On September 2, 1503, Alfonso Albuquerque, with a fleet of twelve ships, arrived in Cochin to rescue him.

As a token of gratitude to the Portuguese for their prompt and timely assistance, Varma granted them permission to build a fort along the Arabian Sea's shoreline in Cochin, which would eventually be known as Fort Kochi. What first materialized was a structure—with a square-shaped foundation—that had flanking bastions armed with weapons in each corner. The wooden fort was built with coconut trunk. The walls were built of double rows of coconut tree stems securely joined together and earth plowed firmly between them; it was also protected by a wet ditch. After its completion, on the morning of October 1, 1503, the fort was given the name ‘Emmanuel’ in honor of Manuel I, the king of Portugal.

The architecture of the fort is a mix of European and Indian styles, reflecting the region's cosmopolitan and multicultural influences. The fort is built using laterite stones, which are abundant in the area. The walls of the fort are thick and high, with bastions at regular intervals. The bastions were used to mount cannons that could be used to defend the fort from attacks. The fort, an excellent example of colonial construction, functioned as a hub for Portuguese authority and influence for nearly a century. The fort was constructed in a water-bound area southwest of the Cochin mainland. The Portuguese built their settlement behind this fort—it included a wooden church, which was rebuilt in 1516 as a permanent structure, presently known as the St Francis Church. In 1538, the defenses of the fort were upgraded and strengthened.

Over the years, this first European fort on Indian soil witnessed many historical events. The fort and its surroundings remained in Portuguese hands for 160 years. Then, in 1683, the Dutch took over the province and destroyed the Portuguese institutions, mainly Catholic ones such as convents. The Dutch occupied the fort for 112 years, until 1795, and made considerable structural modifications. Subsequently, the British acquired control of the fort and used it as a military base during their reign in India. By 1806, a majority of the fort’s walls and bastions were demolished and dismantled both by the Dutch and the British. Many remains of the once-powerful fort are currently housed in the basement of the Indo-Portuguese Museum, located within the premises of the Bishop’s House.

Today, the fort serves as a distinct reminder of the region’s colonial past. It is more than a historical landmark in that it represents a rich yet conflicted cultural legacy whose imprints are still there.

The Remaining Part of the Gunnery at the Fort (Source- Incredible India )