THE FORGOTTEN PARADISE OF A MUGHAL QUEEN

From a nautch girl to the queen of Mughal empire, Udham Bai alias Qudsia Begum led quite an inspiring life and unlike most other women of medieval times, she refused to let her story and achievements die with her. So, she decided to get an entire garden complex with a palace constructed and named after herself. But this historical structure gradually lost its former royal charm and is now treated as an ordinary hanging spot by citizens and the authorities, alike.

Qudsia Bagh as painted by the Orientalist series of Thomas Daniell. Image Source: Zikr-e-Dilli

There are many extraordinary women in medieval times who managed to outshine and show their true potential in the male-dominated world. History has not been kind to most of them but for some, their identity and achievements have not entirely been lost. Such is the story of Qudsia Begum and her historical legacy, the Qudsia Bagh.

Lying in the part that constitutes Old Delhi at present times, near Kashmere Gate to be precise, Qudsia Bagh is a huge garden complex originally built with a palace and a mosque. Similar to other Mughal gardens including the Shalimar Bagh and others, it was built in the Persian Char Bagh architectural style, and is hence quadrilateral in its layout.

The history of Qudsiyah Bagh takes us to the Mughal empire, in the 18th century. Nasiruddin Muhammad Shah 'Rangeela' was the ruler of the slowly declining Mughal Empire. He was put on the throne as a puppet king by the infamous Sayyid brothers, but in an effort to take full control over his throne, he betrayed the brothers and got them murdered.

It was in this backdrop that Udham Bai’s life got entangled with the Mughal Court and in particular, with Muhammad Shah. Introduced to the royal court as a dancer, Udham Bai quickly became popular among the nobility due to her charm and wit. Eventually, she grabbed the attention of the emperor himself and became his third wife. Muhammad Shah’s fondness for Udham Bai grew even after their marriage as she gave birth to Ahmad Shah, the heir to the Mughal throne.

It is believed that unlike many women of the time, Udham Bai was even granted Mansabdari rights due to her influence and administrative skills.

When Muhammad Shah passed away in 1748, Udham Bai became the regent for six years, between 1748 and 1754 and assumed the title ‘Qudsia Begum’. The year she became the regent, Qudsia Begum decided to get a large garden complex constructed in her name, which would allow her a peaceful retreat from time and again, away from the court politics of the Red Fort.

Built with lakhori bricks (thinner and flatter than the ones we use today) with detailed stucco work on the walls, the entire complex contains numerous small and large buildings, each with a beauty of its own. The sprawling gardens in its heyday were filled with a variety of trees and flowers that could parallel any European landscape. There also existed a palace inside the complex (now in ruins), which was a private space meant exclusively for the Queen. It was surrounded by towering walls on all sides, one of them being the Hathi Darwaza, which was the original grand entrance to the palace. Besides these, there is a Shahi Masjid or Royal Mosque, which used to be another private space for the queen.

Much of the former architectural layout underwent decline soon after Qudsia Begum died in 1765. Yet, this historic building bear witness to many significant throughout the nineteenth and the twentieth centuries. During the revolt of 1857, the British troopers sought refuge in the Bagh and inflicted considerable damage to the walls and the gardens.

Further, in 1929, before Bhagat Singh and his associate, Batukeshwar Dutt planned to throw the bomb at the assembly house, they presumably had their last gathering at Qudsia Bagh, where another revolutionary applied tilak on their forehead for good luck.

However, by the time India attained independence, Qudsia Bagh became a victim of major exploitation. From constructing a British residence inside the royal complex to digging metro lines through the gardens, the historical significance of the complex has been severely affected. Today, the majestic complex of Qudsia Begum has become a mere leisure spot or a park for residents around the area and other visitors. What used to be an area of more than 50 acres has now shrunk to only 20 acres, with half the buildings destroyed, and others, on the brink of it.

Udham Bai was a dancer in Muhammad Shah's court. Image Source: Wikipedia

Qudsia Bagh is located in Yamuna Marg, near Kashmere Gate in Old Delhi. Image Source: So City