The Legends of the Mawphlang Sacred Grove

The dense forests of Mawphlang provide important glimpses into the traditional life and heritage of the Khasi tribes in Meghalaya.  The Khasi locals have been guarding the sacred groves of Mawphlang for time immemorial. What lies on the other side of the forests? Who or what are these locals protecting? Let’s find out.

The monoliths, situated at the entry point of the Mawphlang Forests. Source: rediscoveryproject

“Nothing ever goes out of this forest.” This is what the locals told us as soon as we entered the dense forests of Mawphlang.

Naturally, we were curious.

On a rainy day in Meghalaya, we found ourselves in the entryway to the sacred grove forests of Mawphlang. The weather was gloomy and the guide’s remark, combined with the eerie atmosphere around the groves, left us feeling a little nervous. We had already heard a few tales from old visitors before we embarked on this journey ourselves. Some said that if we leave the forests with even a leaf stuck to our shoe, we might face serious trouble. But we decided to take the risk anyway. After all, how else do we find the truth if we do not see it for ourselves?

Before entering the forests, we were sure to take notice of the impressive monoliths covered in moss, decorating the gateway. The guide mentioned that they had ritualistic significance. Among the Khasis, the monoliths acted as important sites for sacrificial rituals in the past. Since these monoliths resided in the entryway, the locals would seek permission from the deity to carry out any further rituals inside the forests.

The deity residing in the monoliths made appearances in the form of leopards, a sign of a good omen. However, if and when the deity made an appearance in the form of a snake, it was a sign that the rituals must be stopped.

Inside, more monoliths hold our sight, each having a unique ritualistic significance. A group of small, flat monoliths, in the shape of stone benches/tables, lay at the heart of the first track of the forests.

Some of these trees are so old, they might as well have been there since the origin of the forests!

This makes Mawphlang a rich site of biodiversity hotspots, untouched by humans because of the efforts of the Lyngdoh clan.

The legend of Labasa and the spine-chilling stories of people who have incurred the deity’s wrath by violating the rule of the forest may be considered as nothing more than a wayfarer’s tale. But the botanical richness and the passion with which the Khasis have preserved this place for so many years is commendable.

The case of Mawphlang is one of the many instances that testifies that the indigenous people are the rightful protectors of natural spaces and no amount of official intervention can preserve the environment as efficiently as the indigenous people do.

The deity residing in the monoliths made appearances in the form of leopards, a sign of a good omen. However, if and when the deity made an appearance in the form of a snake, it was a sign that the rituals must be stopped.

Inside, more monoliths hold our sight, each having a unique ritualistic significance. A group of small, flat monoliths, in the shape of stone benches/tables, lay at the heart of the first track of the forests

These monoliths were believed to be a site where the old kings of the Lyngdoh Clan (the Khasi clan in charge of the forests), used to sit for sacrificial rituals. In the ancient days, it was believed that the clan used to make occasional sacrifices to appease the local deity, Labasa.

The sacrifices were usually made of big animals like bulls. However, at present, such traditional rituals are not practised and even if they are, the sacrifices use small animals like cocks.

The local deity Labasa (La means God) is hence held as the ultimate protector of the Lyngdoh clan and the forests of Mawphlang are regarded as the private ownership of the deity.

This is why it is prohibited to take anything out of the forest premises as it is considered to be a sign of disrespect to Labasa. According to the stories of the locals, many people have tried to break this rule in the past and regretted it for their lives.

There is one tale about a group of men who fell a tree and tried taking it with them. However, when they put the woods in their car, the car stopped running. It was only when the men put the woods back in the forests that the car finally started again!

In some cases, spirits haunted the people who knowingly took something from the forests back to their homes.

When we entered the forests, we were welcomed by the sight of rich flora all around. The guide navigated us through the woods, as we breathed in the fresh air filled with the fragrance of exotic flowers. Every shrub, every tree seems to tell a story of its own. More than half of them constitute medical or therapeutic properties. The bark of the Himalayan Yew (a kind of a coniferous tree), is believed to have anti-cancerous properties. The beautiful pine flowers falling everywhere on the ground, are considered to be effective in treating migraines and headaches. Apart from this, rhododendron, rudraksha, and various other uncommon species of flora adorn the forests of Mawphlang.

An ancient tree in the forest. Is anyone reminded of the famous story of Alice in Wonderland? Source: Bibhu Dev Mishra

A group of monoliths at the heart of the Sacred Grove Forest. The Lyngdoh King used to sit in the rectangular stone monolith during sacrificial rituals. Source: Pinterest