The Origin of Lehenga Choli

The beautiful models walking down the ramps with gorgeous Sabyasachi lehengas have always captivated girls. From brilliant, vibrant colours to calm pastel shades, we are absolutely in awe of them. Due to their wide variety of designs and gracefulness, they have been the favourite clothing for decades. But, have you ever wondered about the origin of the lehenga choli?

One of the most classic styles are Lehenga, Image source- WeddingWire

There is no doubt that our B-town has given us some major lehenga goals for every occasion. Be it a wedding, any festival, or a ceremonial event, we girls already have lehenga designs ready in our minds.

Typically, a lehenga is a long Indian skirt fastened at the waist, exposing the mid-riff. A choli is a fitted blouse, and a dupatta is a long piece of cloth that acts as a saree pallu. It is often worn to add more elegance to the whole outfit. The plethora of designs in the attire ranges from heavy embroidery to simple work.

The origin of the lehenga can be dated to ancient times, when it consisted of an Antariya, Uttariya, and a Stanaptta. An Antariya was a strip of fabric wrapped around the waist, passing through the legs, and tucked behind the back. A Uttariya was a veil-like garment worn over the head or shoulders. The attire also included a chest band, which was called Stanapatta.

The evolution of Lehengas, Image source- StackUmbrella.jpg

This form of clothing is described in the ancient scriptures. It can be assumed from those descriptions that the Antariya became the lehenga, the Uttariya was modified into the dupatta, and the Stanapatta became the choli.

Lehenga Choli came to India after the Mughals during the 10th century and evolved with their rule. The Mughal women wore these three-piece suits, which were a symbol of their Persian culture. The fine details crafted on the lehengas quickly became popular among the royals. Lehengas were first made primarily of cotton, but as time went on, silk and brocade were used to make them into more royal clothing.

Even though the Mughals brought the trend of the lehenga to India, the Rajputs also wore a similar dress. However, they added a white piece of cloth called "patka" to their lehengas to enhance the elegance of the outfit. The lehenga was also immensely popular in the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan.

Floral lehengas are the new trend, Image source - Panash India.jpg

The royal red bridal lehengas, Image source- JPM group

One area where design evolution has not been particularly rapid is the history of bridal lehengas. They still have the same lavish, luxurious, and elegant appearance as they did when the Maharajas and Nawabs ruled. However, today's designers have begun experimenting and combining uncommon hues like cream, ivory, grey, and even black with the traditional red, pink, and green tones.

The lehenga has surpassed all design limitations in modern times. Hundreds of distinctly designed lehengas pop up on Instagram feeds and the internet. There is no doubt that the lehenga choli has been one of the most popular and beautiful attire in Indian fashion.

Even after the Mughal rule ended, lehengas continued to be the choice of North Indian women. This was due to the deeply rooted influence of the Mughals and their culture in the Northern lands.

Earlier it was worn as a statement of women's married life as they covered their faces with a veil. However, it lost its importance with the onset of the saree after independence. Women got inclined towards the saree more than the lehenga, but the lehenga made a comeback. In the 1990s, the lehenga came into vogue again by Indian designers. It was the period when it became popular among the common masses.