The Ravishing Red Lipstick in India

Lipstick is a must-have makeup accessory everyone swears by. But where does it come from? How did women start using it? Women have, as a part of their makeup, always reddened their lips ever since the dawn of civilization. In ancient India, the effect of applying lipstick was achieved by chewing Betel leaf. Lipsticks, as we know them today, were introduced in England in the 16th Century by Queen Elizabeth I.

Red Lips Source: purple

July 29 is National Lipstick Day observed to celebrate this popular cosmetic item which is generally a must in every lady’s handbag. Many may feel that lipstick came into being in modern times but that is far from true. Men and women in ancient Indus Valley and Sumerian civilizations may have invented and used it. Women have, as a part of their makeup, always reddened their lips ever since the dawn of civilization. There is evidence to suggest that the practice existed 5,000 years ago in Babylon, where a paste made by crushing precious stones was used. In Egypt, lipstick made of chemicals was used for some time but was found to be poisonous.  In ancient India, the effect of applying lipstick was achieved by chewing Betel leaf. Lipsticks, as we know them today, were introduced in England in the 16th Century by Queen Elizabeth I. It attained wide popularity after World war II.

In Mesopotamia, after a few interesting experiments with red rocks and gemstones, a vibrant powder emerged. That was the very first version of the ravishing red lipstick, which was 5000 years ago. After this, there were various references marking the use of lipsticks in various cultures. The Sumerians used crushed gemstones to decorate their lips and the area around the eyes. Indus Valley women used rectangular pieces of ocher with beveled ends as lipstick.  In ancient Egypt, Cleopatra was known to crush carmine bugs to get the red color for their lips. The ancient Indian Sanskrit text on sexuality, eroticism and emotional fulfillment in life attributed to Vatsyayana Mallanaga, Kamasutra, describes lip coloring made of red lac and beeswax and also how to use it. Making lipstick from beeswax more than 1,000 years ago. Coloring of the lip gained popularity in England in the 16th Century. Bright red lips and a stark white face were fashionable during the time of Queen Elizabeth. This cosmetic then was made from a blend of beeswax and red stains from plants. Movies and actresses too played a vital role in popularizing lipstick. Ghee mixed with dry petals of ratan-jot was used as therapy for chapped and sore lips as an Ayurvedic practice in India. It later took up cosmetic value and is still used as a natural lip color in some parts of the country. However, it is the adoption of Western practices and the Pop-culture influence that made a mark of lipsticks in India.

Hollywood stars Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor in the 1950s popularized dark red lips.  However, until the early 90s lipsticks were considered as the epitome of sexuality, persuasion and character of women. Though Lipsticks had a great history, for a long period, they were considered inappropriate for the 'nice girls'. Even if allowed to wear some occasionally, colors that ‘caught attention’ was a big no-no in the earlier days. Red, of course, was taboo. It was in the ’90s that brick-red lipsticks became popular. Bollywood star Raveena Tandon, who ruled the roost with her hit songs ‘Tu cheez badi hai mast mast’ and ‘Tip tip barsa paani’ in the film Mohra was particularly iconic with her dark tousled hair and bright lips. The fact that India had its own established cosmetic brand, Lakme, made the entry of lipsticks into middle-class homes easier. For the longest time, Hindi movies segregated vamps from heroines by creating a demarcation between ‘provocative’ red lipstick and tamer nude/pink shades. This tied into our upbringing, wherein we were told that red is ‘too much’. In reality, red lipstick has always been about rebellion. With the evolution of time, the regressive thoughts of Indian society on the women who use lipsticks have remained constant

Marilyn Monroe in ravishing red lipstick; source: Indianarrative.com

From Cleopatra to Marilyn Monroe, countless women have chosen to sport the audacity and instant confidence that red lipstick carries with it. But like the experiences of many Indian women, it is not uncommon for men, whether it’s the boyfriend, husband or father, to tell women that they ‘don’t like it’. Over the years, women have also learned to reconcile the urge for defiance that lipstick holds with the cosmetic industry’s commercial agenda in pushing a standardized idea of women’s beauty. This is just one of the many contradictions that modern women straddle.