The Story of Pheran

Clothing has a lot to do with representing the diversity of any region. Almost every Indian state has its own unique tales about the clothes that are worn by their people. One such story surrounds the Kashmiri garment called pheran.

Boys wearing pherans | Source: Savaari

Clothes are the unique identity indicators for any region as well as the people of its community. They also hold within them a historical significance. They are intricately woven into the lives of the people they are worn by.

Large parts of the state of Jammu and Kashmir face harsh, biting winters every year. The clothing of the region reflects this. One popular garment that can be found in the wardrobe of every local is the pheran.

The etymological origins of the word 'pheran' are disputed. Many believe that it was derived from the Persian word perahan, which translates to 'shirt'. Others say that its origins lie in the Tajik word peraband which means 'apron'. Nevertheless, the significance of the garment itself is greater than the name game.

The Kashmiri pheran is a long, cover-like garment. It is a unisex item of clothing that is worn by people of all genders alike. It consists of two gown-like garments worn on top of each other. The length usually extends to the feet or the knee. Traditionally, the garment is made using wool or tweed to protect from the biting chill that is prevalent in the winter season. Sometimes people keep a small kangri basket filled with embers underneath the pheran to provide additional heat. A cotton lining is also added to the inside of the garment to make it ideal for sitting beside roaring fires that provide people comfort in theChilla-i-Kalan.

Chilla-i-Kalan is the name bestowed upon the period of harsh winter in the region. Considered to last for a period of 40 days, it is marked from 21 December to 29 January each year. The term literally translates to 'major cold' in Persian. It was this period that the person was particularly fashioned for. The flowy, heavy cloth protects the wearer from the harsh weather of this season.

Its origins are claimed to date as far back as the 15th century. Many claim that the garment was introduced by the Mughal ruler Akbar when he conquered the region in 1586. Others say that the Persian travellers who found their way to Kashmir brought the pheran with them. In the old days, pheran was made of bright-coloured cloth. The people of Kashmir consider this cloth to be deeply intertwined with their own identity. It represents their values of modesty and grace, and most of all, it represents the beautiful valley of Kashmir.

The dress is embellished with all kinds of intricate and beautiful embroidery. These designs are especially seen in the pherans made keeping women in mind. Silk and velvet cloth are sometimes used as a base for the tilla threads—threads of golden and silver colour used for embroidery. These fancy pherans are spotted as the attire at various important functions and festivals. Regardless, the simple pherans are perhaps the best example of the beauty of this highly useful garment.

Several kinds of changes have been made to the way pheran is worn now. It is available in all kinds of shades and colours. Some makers add hoods to the pherans to provide people with a head covering for protection against the wind. Some attempts have even been made to fashion the clothing out of cotton material to make it wearable for the summer season.

The people of Kashmir have been wearing this garment with pride for generations and generations now. 21 December has even been reserved to be celebrated as Pheran Day as it marks the first day of the season for which the clothing item was specifically designed. The people of Kashmir swear that jackets and coats could never compare with the comfort and heat of a simplepheran.