The Tale of Bikini

The bikini was a hot topic of debate even before music composer Yashraj Mukhate's "Biggini shoot" went viral online. This minimal article of clothing has raised eyebrows and spurred discussions on moral, social, and political issues. Nevertheless, the bikini has caused quite a stir and revolutionized the fashion and entertainment industries.

Sharmila Tagore in a bikini for the August 1966 issue of Filmfare magazine, Source: Filmfare.jpg

On July 5, 1946 in Paris, history was made when showgirl Micheline Bernardini donned a bikini for the first time at a press event. She held up a matchbox to demonstrate how the bikini could fit completely within. French designer, Louis Réard, created history when he designed swimwear that used only 30 inches of fabric. He named the two-piece swimwear 'Bikini' after the Bikini Atoll where the first atomic weapon was tested.

Micheline Bernardini, 1946. Source:Wikimedia Commons

The roots of the bikini may be traced back to the Cold War era. A fashion revolution was not the original goal of the minimalist costume design. The creation of the bikini, in fact, is a result of the economic shortages and material rationing during World War II. The United States War Production Boards issued an order during the Cold War to control the use of natural fibers in clothing and to reduce the fabric used in women's swimwear by 10 percent.

A bikini is a two-piece swimsuit that is typically worn by women and has two triangles of fabric on top that cover the breasts and two triangles of fabric on the bottom, with the front triangle covering the pelvis and the back covering the buttocks.

In India, the bikini first appeared in August 1966 when Bollywood actress Sharmila Tagore donned a bikini and was photographed by Dhiren Chawda, one of the best photographers, for Filmfare magazine. Before the bikini, there existed the one-piece swimsuit, and as global trend gradually changed, the two-piece became the standard. As a result, the bikini was introduced, exposing women's midriffs. This two-piece swimsuit made headlines across the nation because it led women to reveal their navels, which are supposedly synonymous with nudity. Despite the fact that the saree blouses are of the same length, it seemed socially and culturally unacceptable in India. It is alleged that the Filmfare cover was even brought up during the question hour in the parliament.

Bikini is not a modern-day product. The history of bikinis dates back to 1400 BC. Women wearing two pieces were also found in the Roman mosaics found in Sicily. An archaeological excavation at the ancient Roman villa near Piazza Armerina in Sicily discovered the mosaic known as 'ancient bikini girls.' Since some of the tesserae (the mosaic's parts) are from Africa, it may have been created in the 4th century CE by North African artisans. It illustrates the sports in which women could participate. Women started wearing bigger clothing as society became more conservative. In some cases, they even sewed weights into the hems of their costumes to prevent them from riding up and exposing their legs on the beach.

Ancient bikini girls: Mosaic from Sicily, Italy, 4th century CE, North African. Source: Daily Art Magazine

Bikinis are presently incredibly popular, and every other Bollywood diva can be seen wearing them and giving their fans fashion goals. However, it was kind of a huge deal back then, and people weren't as appreciative of western culture as they are today. Bollywood actresses would seldom ever show their skin in the 1990s. Their followers back then particularly respected their style of dressing since they chose costumes that were "appropriate" according to societal conventions. Sharmila Tagore's costume spurred discussions on moral, social, and political issues among the Indian audience, but it also set a trend for bikini-clad actresses which was carried forward by Parveen Babi in Yeh Nazdeekiyan (1982), Zeenat Aman in Heera Panna (1973) and Qurbaani (1980) and Dimple Kapadia in Bobby (1973). Initially, it was more of a sensation than success.

Sharmila Tagore donning a bikini(left) and a swimsuit(right). Source: The New Indian Express

The 1990s saw a dramatic increase in the number of homes with TVs as satellite channels started beaming the entire world into Indian homes via cable television. Sushmita Sen and Aishwarya Rai, two beauty queens from India, were introduced to the globe at this time. Aishwarya received the Miss World title while Sushmita received the Miss Universe title. The beauty pageants, which featured models wearing swimsuits and winning awards for the country, influenced the cultural perspectives of many Indians.

Every year, 5 July is celebrated as International Bikini Day as this day marks the anniversary of the invention of the bikini. The day is not just a celebration of the fashion revolution around the world, but also the celebration of how the definition of femininity in India, which was associated with modesty, changed with the advent of the bikini.