The Temple of Glittering Walls

Vidushi

The Temple of Glittering Walls

The Mahadeva Temple at Pervunam is one of the most unique temples in India. Sprawled across 7 acres of land, this huge structure houses two distinct and immaculate shrines to Lord Shiva, inviting devotees to spend time amidst nature and connect with the divine.

The Entrance to the Temple By Manojk - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=51507955

When Lord Parshuram reclaimed Kerala from the sea, he established 64 villages. The first and most important among them was Peruvanam. A temple was later built here by the ancestor of the Pandavas, the son of King Yayati, Pooru Maharshi. The place derived its name from him, and today, the temple stands as a piece of exemplary architecture, culture, and heritage. With stunning sculptures adorning its walls, the Peruvanam Mahadeva Temple is one of the country's most unique architectural marvels.

The temple is built in the Kerala style of architecture and is spread across 7 acres of land. It is surrounded by a boundary wall with entrances at the East and West. The wall also features shrines to various gods in the cardinal directions. Two shrines within the temple complex are dedicated to Lord Shiva - the Irattayappan Temple in the North and the Maadathilappan Temple in the South. Interestingly, the traditional dance of Koothu is performed as a religious offering to the lord for forty-one days from mid-July in these temples.

The circumambulation of this temple is done in an interesting way. Since it is taboo in Kerala to cross an imaginary ray emanating from Shiva, devotees first complete half of the circumambulation from one direction, then return and finish the remaining half from the other side.

The Irattayappan Temple gets its name because it houses a dual Shivalinga. The entrance to the temple is guarded by two dvarapalas standing on the coils of a snake. A recessed Mukhamandapa (main mandapa) is reached after a flight of steps, providing access to the square sanctum. The superstructure, made of laterite blocks, is single-storeyed with decorative pilasters. The temple is built on a circular base, and niches in the west and east accommodate Dakshinamoorthy and Parvathy respectively. In front of the temple, there is a spacious namaskara mandapa with beautiful wood carvings on its ceiling and pillars.

An awe-inspiring feature of the temple is the rectangular diya holders that adorn its outer walls from top to bottom. When lit, the walls shimmer with flames, creating a divine ambience throughout the temple.

The temple has been a protected monument by the ASI since 1982. Peruvanam Pooram is one of the most famous festivals celebrated here. With its sprawling structure, green pastures, intriguing tales, and unique customs, the Peruvanam Mahadeva Temple is a hidden gem nestled in the lush greenery of Kerala. Away from the hustle and bustle of city life, the temple offers people a chance to spend peaceful moments in the lap of nature and in the presence of the divine.

The Maadathilappan Temple boasts the tallest sanctum in South India. What makes this temple particularly fascinating is its three-storey structure. Constructed in the style known as Meru Mandhara Prasad, the temple utilizes the entire ground floor as the foundation, while positioning the shrine on the upper level, referred to as the second story, and false niches adorn both the ground and upper tiers, and the walls feature Gandharvas. The temple's floor is entirely tiled, and it does not have a namaskara mandapa. Its superstructure is octagonal with a copper roof. It is believed that during the transportation of a large shivling acquired from a lake near Badrinath to its current location, it became entangled in a tree branch, leading to the creation of the Maadathilappan Temple.

A shloka describes the order of worship in the temples:

*“Poorvan Pooruvane janais savinayam dwithwaasrayas sankaro

Vandyah, caatha gireendrajaa, punaratas sanyaasayogee kramaal

Yugmesasca, mahalayoparivasan maateswaro anantaram

Yogeendrasca, gajaananah, punarato yugmeswarasca kramaal.”*

Meaning (from https://www.hindupedia.com/en/Peruvanam_Shiva_temple ):

First, at Peruvanam, Lord Shiva in his dual form is to be humbly worshipped by devotees.

Then, worship Sreeparvathy followed by the Lord in meditation.

Next, worship Ganapathy and then the Lord who occupies a high abode.

Finally, worship the sage, Ganapathy, and Irattayappan.

Near the western entrance of the temple, there is a makeshift Koothambalam on an old foundation. Two sacrificial stones, balikkals, are also placed there, aligning with the axis of the two temples. A structure between the two shrines is believed to be the treasure chest of the temple.

The tritala vimana of the shrine By Manojk - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=51507419

A row of diya holders along the outside walls of the temple By Manojk - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=51507103

The Koothambalam By Manojk - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=51506939

The sprawling grounds of the Temple By Manojk - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=51507209

Stunning and meticulous woodwork over the entrances to the shrines By Manojk - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=51507817