The Thriving Second Oldest Regal Club of India

Waheeda Bi khan

The Thriving Second Oldest Regal Club of India

When the need arises for a secluded space amidst the chaos of daily life, where one can create a tranquil environment and connect with like-minded individuals through amenities that cater not only to their hobbies but also nourish their minds, the opulent Madras Club comes to life. Spanning acres of land dedicated to providing utmost comfort to its members, the Madras Club, now the second oldest club for the elite in Chennai, continues to whisper tales of its origins and flourishing history.

The Main Building of the current Madras Club — Mowbrays Cupola; Source: madrasclub.org

When the need arises for a secluded space amidst the chaos of daily life, where one can create a tranquil environment and connect with like-minded individuals through amenities that cater not only to their hobbies but also nourish their minds, the opulent Madras Club comes to life. Spanning acres of land dedicated to providing utmost comfort to its members, the Madras Club, now the second oldest club for the elite in Chennai, continues to whisper tales of its origins and flourishing history.

Although the Madras Club's purpose has evolved from its colonial context to one serving the Indian bourgeoisie, its luxurious history continues to instil a sense of pride in its existence. Centuries ago, during British rule in India, the British longed for solitude and sought to recreate spaces that would mimic the socio-cultural atmosphere of their motherland. Inspired by English coffee houses and clubs, they established similar establishments in India, where they could temporarily escape the culturally distinct native population and be among their own kind. Among these clubs, a few stood out in the social history of European influence on the Indian milieu, such as the Madras Club.

To address the demands and preferences of the members, discussions were initiated to merge the two clubs. Such a merger would reduce the financial burden of managing the extensive establishments and alleviate the strain on members' finances. Though it took seven years of negotiation, the merger was finally concluded in 1963. The second house was sold, and the club relocated to its current premises. In the mid-18th century, a prominent businessman named George Mowbrays developed a luxurious estate overlooking the Adyar River. This estate spanned 105 acres of lush land and featured the magnificent Mowbrays Cupola building, designed in a pantheon style. Upon retiring and planning to return to England, George Mowbrays sold the entire estate to another elite individual, Mr John D'Monte. Tragically, D'Monte passed away shortly after acquiring the property, leaving no heirs. He bequeathed the estate to the Archdiocese of Mylapore, Madras. When the clubs' merger was finalised, the Madras Club purchased 12.7 acres of the Mowbrays garden from the Archdiocese of Mylapore. These acres, which were previously leased to the Adyar Club, became part of the existing Madras Club.

While the Madras Club's historical tale spans over two centuries, its elusive nature has retained the concept encapsulated in the following quote:

“The Club is like an extension to your home so you don’t want to let just anyone in.” — Claire Richardson

The Madras Club continues to thrive, exuding its European elegance intertwined with the regal hospitality of India. Today, it exclusively serves Indian elites, both men and women, as well as foreign guests seeking a luxurious stay in one of its fourteen suites or cottages. The grandeur of the Mowbrays Cupola reflects its European heritage and includes a magnificent foyer, a ballroom, a top-notch dining restaurant, three bars, a billiards room, a cards room, and a party room, all encompassed by a vast and beautiful balcony. The pristine Mowbrays gardens now host state-of-the-art amenities such as two badminton courts, five tennis courts, two squash courts, a spacious library, a bakery, office spaces, and meeting rooms. Members can enjoy peaceful walks or jogs along the track between the river and the main building, which provides ample parking. The club also boasts a 25-meter lap pool complemented by cafes sponsored by renowned five-star restaurants, a well-equipped gym, and changing rooms.

Despite spanning two centuries of existence, the Madras Club has managed to maintain its allure and exclusivity, earning it a diverse membership that can't help but elicit envy from those who are denied access to its luxuries. As the saying goes, "Owners’ pride, neighbours’ envy." The Madras Club, often considered equivalent to the Melbourne Club in Australia, shows no signs of relinquishing its grandeur in the century to come.

The origins of English clubs can be traced back to old taverns, where men from various walks of life gathered for jovial moments, drinks, and social interactions. These taverns eventually transformed into establishments catering to like-minded or status-based groups, such as taverns for sailors or knights. Over time, these rustic taverns evolved into urbanised coffee houses, with ownership transitioning to committees or funded trusts while managers oversaw the services. The desire for further exclusivity based on urban class or field gave rise to the concept of clubs. For instance, the Apollo Club of Ben Jonson initially held their meetings at the Devil's Tavern at Temple Bar, and Tom's Coffee House later transformed into a fashionable club.

An anecdote illustrates the fundamental need that led to the creation of exclusive spaces and eventually the concept of clubs like the Bengal Club, one of India's premier clubs today, or the Madras Club. It is believed that Freemasons and Kafkas established exclusive spaces to escape from their wives or individuals they did not wish to spend time with, providing respite from the daily grind of life. This concept endures to this day, with exclusive clubs employing a process of approving or rejecting membership applications. Rejections can sometimes be lighthearted, with reasons as simple as a member of the anonymous selection committee or an existing member expressing explicit dislike for the applicant's presence in the club, as they come to the club to avoid such individuals.

The story of the Madras Club began in early 1832 when Sir Robert Comyn, the contemporary Chief Justice, proposed the establishment of a British men's club and the acquisition of a specific property. The premises, purchased from Mr Webster, became the first house of the Madras Club, occupying 7 acres of land near Mount Road. This initial house later became known as the Express Estate and is now the Express Mall adjacent to Club Road. The exclusive British male club gained prominence as it hosted grand royal balls for esteemed guests like the Duke of Edinburgh, the Prince of Wales (who later became king), and the Duke of Connaught. British women were initially only allowed to attend balls held for British royalty. Unfortunately, Indians, even those of noble birth, were not permitted to join the club. Nevertheless, the club flourished unlike any other in the region, with its exceptional services and amenities attracting over 3000 members by the latter half of the 19th century.

The club's success necessitated the expansion of its property. Another 4 acres of adjoining land were acquired, and an additional 5 acres were leased towards the end of the century. Maintaining the club's regal infrastructure and hosting standards required substantial funds, not only through membership subscriptions but also for upkeep. When repairs and renovations were needed for the over-a-century-old club estate, the search for a second clubhouse began. It concluded with the purchase of Branson Bagh, owned by the Raja of Bobbili. The newly acquired building became the second house of the Madras Club, located opposite Church Park School. In another part of the Madras urban area, another exclusive club, the Adyar Club, was established at the turn of the 19th century, known for its picturesque location on the banks of the Adyar River. Both clubs offered prestigious memberships to European settlers due to their remarkable services and amenities, including the extensive library at the Madras Club, which attracted those seeking intellectual treasures. However, dual membership in both clubs became financially burdensome for those who desired to experience the best of both worlds.

Collage created in Canva: From top-left clockwise — The spacious balcony of the main building, the famous octagonal room and the office; Source: madrasclub.org