The Twisted Tale of Jalebi

The sweet refined flour batter is deep fried in piping hot ghee and made into a spiral-shaped delight by using a muslin cloth. This traditional pretzel is then dipped in saffron-flavoured sugar syrup. Sounds delicious, doesn't it? After all, this is the one and only Jalebi. Most Indians have eaten Jalebi in different forms with different compliments, but is Jalebi really Indian?

Jalebi; Source: GettyImages

Enjoying a plate of hot, crispy jalebis along with samosas or chilled rabri takes us back to our treasured memories of merriment. Be it wedding ceremonies, regional festivities, or a patriotic gala on Republic Day, Jalebis are indeed a staple of the national celebration. And while we often enjoyed and continue to enjoy this delectable dessert, we never realised that jalebis are not Indian. Astounded? But yes! Unfortunately, the origin of our crispy and sweet jalebis does not lie in India.

The recipe for Jalebi originated in Persia as Zulbiya or in Arabia as Zalabiya. This veracity was unearthed by the discovery of a 10th-century Persian cookbook, "Kitab al-Tabekkh," by Muhammad bin Hasan al-Baghdadi, as well as another 10th-century Arabic cookbook by Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq.

It is believed that this confectionery was introduced in India during the mediaeval ages by Turkish and Persian traders or artisans who travelled to our country for business. But the paramount evidence of the transformation of Persia’s Zulbiya to India’s Jalebi lies in a 15th-century book, "Priyamkarnrpakatha," written by Jain author Jinsura. This scripture underlies how jalebi gained significance in the conclaves of wealthy merchants.

By the 15th century, it is believed that jalebi had become a permanent part of Indian cuisine and temple culture. This was also reflected in the manuals of the following centuries, including cookbooks.

Several ancient Indian texts have mentioned jalebi as jalavallika or kundalika, a common dish served during weddings and festivities. But what’s more fascinating is that a 15th-century cookbook, "Bhojana Kutuhala" by Raghunatha, encompasses the same recipe for jalebi as it is used to date. Another recipe for jalebi that is very similar to modern preparation can be found in Gunyagunabodhini, a 16th-century Sanskrit book.

Significantly, it is also believed that "shashkuli," which finds its reference in the scriptures as Lord Rama's favourite sweet, is none other than jalebi.

So, even if not Indian in origin, Jalebi’s ability to capture the heart and soul of the subcontinent for around 500 years accentuates the quintessence of Indianness it carries. As we call it by different names—Jaleba, Jangri, Jilbi, Zelapi, Jilanpir Pak, and Jeri—and eat it in various ways, this dainty continues and will continue to rule our hearts and our celebrations.