The Village that creates magic with Silk

In the lower part of Assam, there lies a small, sleepy village, where the only sounds you will be greeted with are the rhythms of weaving looms and flying shuttles. And yet this village is far from ordinary. Since time immemorial, this place has been hitting more than a few headlines on the global platform for its unique craft.

 A weaver, operating the traditional *Taat Xaal* (handloom) of Sualkuchi. Source: Indian Express

‘Silk haven’, ‘Manchester of the East, and ‘Silk Village of India’ are just a few words used to describe the village of Sualkuchi (Assamese: Hualkusi), in Assam. Known for its unique and rich silk fabrics, this place weaves magic into every piece of clothing it manufactures. There are few, if any, places that can compete with the quality and fine texture of the silk fabrics produced in Sualkuchi.

The most renowned cloth fabrics found in Sualkuchi include the golden ‘Muga’, the ivory ‘Pat’ and the beige ‘Eri’. The term ‘Ahimsa silk’ (peace silk) is associated only with the silk fabrics of Assam which is quite sustainable in approach.

The significance of Ahimsa silk is that they are made out of only the open-ended cocoons after the pupae fully mature and hence, no silkworms are killed in the process of manufacturing these fabrics.

These fabrics come in multiple designs, often with motifs woven on them. The motifs are often inspired by the traditional flora and fauna like rhino, deer, etc., as well as certain traditional ethnic symbols like the Jaapi (traditional hat), resulting in elaborate designer fabrics.

The silk fabrics of Sualkuchi have been proudly worn by women and men of Assam, generations after generations. The traditional Mekhela Saador worn by women is made from these varieties of silk fabrics. These fabrics have been in great demand outside Assam and even outside India.

It is believed that the Muga fabrics produced in Sualkuchi live longer than the weavers and the owners themselves!

The modern village of Sualkuchi is believed to have been officially founded by Momai Tamuli Borgohain, an official under the Ahom ruler Swargadeo Pratap Singha, in the 17th century. But its history goes way back to the ancient period.

Kautilya, the famous minister of Chandragupta Maurya, mentions this place in his book Arthashastra, which dates back roughly to the 3rd-2nd century BCE.

The text mentions a place called Suvarnakudya in the Kamrupa region of the northeast where the best Patrorna (Pat) silk was found. It is likely that the place he was referring to was Sualkuchi, which was known by the name of Suvarnakudya in ancient times.

Several historians, however, argue that the practice of silk weaving in Sualkuchi actually began at a much later date, around the 11th-12th centuries. They argue that it was Dharma Pala, the Pala ruler, who brought the Tanti weaving community from the region of Tantikuchi to Sualkuchi. This may have been because, for a long time, silk weaving in Sualkuchi was exclusively practised by the Tanti weaving community.

However, it is generally accepted that the modern-day Sualkuchi was founded when the Ahoms came to power.

Owing to the patronage of the Palas and the Ahoms, the weaving tradition of Sualkuchi flourished outside Assam and soon word of the magic silk reached Britain and other foreign countries. The rich fabrics of Sualkuchi could be afforded only by the royals and other elites so it is no surprise that all the rich people were willing to get their hands on this luxurious commodity.

The weaving industry of Sualkuchi, despite all its greatness, faced major hurdles during the industrial revolution. The cheap, mass-produced goods imported by the British threatened the very survival of the traditional handloom industry of Assam. However, the weaving community got a boost during the second world war.

Currently, the age-old traditional culture of Sualkuchi is met with another threat. There are several weavers outside this village who use inferior quality silk yarns and sell them under the brand of Sualkuchi Silk. Moreover, the availability of different varieties of silk across the country has increased competition in the market. Since most of these fabrics are cheaper, consumers are more willing to buy them, even by compromising quality.

But the weavers of Sualkuchi have not given in to these threats. They continue thumping their foot on their looms, creating magic and enriching the culture of the state of Assam.

A weaver, operating the traditional Taat Xaal (handloom) of Sualkuchi. Source: Indian Express