Tying the Colors of Life

Bandhani print, originating in India, is a tie-dye art form. It involves tying fabric with thread to create intricate patterns. Resisting dye in tied areas, it produces vibrant designs with bright colours, fine dots, and floral motifs. Popular for festive garments, it showcases Indian craftsmanship.

Bandhani Print; Image Credits: Jaipur Fabrics

Once upon a time, in the vibrant land of India, there existed an ancient art form that spun tales of tradition and beauty. This art was none other than Bandhani, a captivating textile print that has adorned fabrics for centuries. Bandhani, derived from the Sanskrit word "bandh," meaning "to tie," weaves together history, evolution, and an intricate process to create a mesmerising symphony of colours.

The history of Bandhani dates back over 5,000 years, according to a broad consensus, when the "Tie & Dye" process was invented! During King Harsha's reign, royal weddings took place where a saree was worn at the beginning.

"This print" originated in the region of Gujarat, where skilled artisans mastered the art of tie-dyeing. From Gujarat, Bandhani spread its enchantment across the Indian subcontinent, eventually reaching the far corners of the world. Along its journey, Bandhani found a special place in the hearts of people, becoming a symbol of cultural heritage and timeless elegance.

The evolution of Bandhani is a testament to the creativity and craftsmanship of generations. Initially, bandhani patterns were simple dots or small circles created by tying small portions of the fabric tightly with a thread. These tied portions resisted the dye, resulting in intricate and captivating patterns. Over time, artisans developed a wide variety of techniques, using different shapes and sizes to create more elaborate designs. Bandhani patterns now encompass a stunning array of motifs, including peacocks, flowers, and geometric patterns, each telling a unique story.

Tie and Dye Bandhani Print; Image Credits: Pinterest

The process of creating bandhani is an art form in itself, requiring precision and patience. It begins with selecting a fine, lightweight fabric, usually cotton or silk, which serves as a canvas for the colours to come alive. Typically, men handle the dying process while women manage the tying. The fabric is washed and dyed in a base colour, typically a vibrant shade like red, blue, or yellow. The artisans then carefully mark the design onto the fabric using chalk or washable ink. Thus the magic begins, the fabric is intricately tied with thread at specific points, securing small sections to create the desired pattern.

Once the tying is complete, the fabric is ready for the dyeing process. The tied sections resist the dye, allowing the untouched areas to absorb the vibrant hues. Artisans skillfully dip the fabric into various dye baths, layering colours to create depth and richness. Each dip adds another layer of complexity, and the tied portions ensure that the colours do not bleed into one another.

After the dyeing process is complete, the fabric is rinsed and carefully untied, revealing the masterpiece within. The tied sections, once released, transform into mesmerizing patterns, as if tiny jewels have been scattered across the fabric. The final step involves washing the fabric to remove any excess dye and enhance the colours’ vibrancy.

Women tying the cloth; Image Credit: Bandhej

In the world of Bandhani prints, there are various captivating types to explore. One such type is Gharchola, where Zari and silk cords are intricately woven into a lattice design, adorned with the art of Bandhani. The colours used are vibrant shades of yellow, red, or green, while the Bandhani work is elegantly done in white. The Zari work takes on two methods, either 'Bavan Bhag' with 52 segments or 'Bar Bagh' with 12 segments, adding a touch of opulence to the fabric.

Another enchanting type is Leheriya, aptly named after the Rajasthani word for "wave." Its designs flow in captivating waves, creating a mesmerising visual appeal.

For those seeking a touch of traditional elegance, Rasamandali is the perfect choice. With a striking red backdrop and distinctive borders, it showcases intricate motifs such as mango branches, dancing ladies, elephants, and peacocks, lending an air of grace to the fabric.

Chandrokhani, on the other hand, derives its name from the figure of the moon. The designs featured are spherical, complemented by a captivating blue-black background. This type is often favoured by brides, as it is believed to reflect the divine beauty of the moon, enhancing the bride's loveliness.

Lastly, there is Khombi, which stands out with its basic red background adorned with scattered white spots, creating an alluring and eye-catching pattern.

Each of these Bandhani types holds its charm, offering a glimpse into the vibrant world of traditional Indian textile art.

Chandrokhani Bandhani; Image Credits: Gaatha

Bandhani's allure lies in its timeless appeal and versatility. The fabric can be used to create exquisite sarees, vibrant turbans, graceful dupattas, and an array of clothing and accessories. It is often embellished with intricate embroidery or mirror work, elevating its beauty to new heights.

In a world where trends come and go, Bandhani stands as a testament to the enduring beauty of tradition and artistry, a timeless print that continues to adorn fabrics and captivate hearts.