Waves of the Sand Dunes: Lehariya Prints

As the sweltering rays of the sun lashed the deserts of Rajasthan, a new form of tying and dyeing emerged, showcasing radiant and vibrant hues that seemed to recite poetry. And indeed, they created poetic expressions, narrating tales of the sandy dunes. Thus, Lehariya print emerged—a fusion of royalty and local traditions.

Lehariya Turbans; Source: Google Arts and Culture

In a burst of colours, fluttering cotton and vibrant dupattas catch the eye, immersing us in a kaleidoscope of Rajasthan's royalty and beauty. The symbolism of colours runs deep in our culture, offering a glimpse into the Rajasthani way of life. Every effort is made to contrast the desert's barrenness by infusing the region with vivid hues.

Lehariya print is a traditional form of tie-dyeing practised in Rajasthan, India, known for creating vividly coloured fabrics with distinct patterns. Lehariya derives from the Hindi word for wave, i.e. lehar, as the dyeing technique often results in intricate wave-like patterns.  Lehariya, a term associated with hope and the wave of water, resonates strongly in a region as arid as Rajasthan. Through their craftmanship, both men, with their Pagdis and Saafas, and women, with their vibrant Lehariya dupattas and saris, express this enduring hope.

As beautiful as the most profound poetry verses of poetry, Lehariya prints capture the fluidity and dynamism of wind cascading over sand dunes, symbolising the grandeur and richness of Rajasthani traditions. This fabric showcases vibrant, resist-dyed diagonal or chevron-striped designs, exclusive to Rajasthan, with Jaipur and Jodhpur serving as their main centres.

This technique of Lehariya prints originated and gained favour among the traders and craftsmen of Gujarat and Rajasthan, who fashioned turbans from this fabric. Its flamboyant stripe and chevron patterns soon captivated the royalty of Rajasthan, becoming associated with their attire. The members of the royal households not only adorned turbans but also donned Lehariya dupattas and traditional dresses, each house boasting its distinctive patterns and colours. Only the most exquisite textiles were used to make saafas, or turban cloths, for the royals.

Traditional Lehariya Tie-Dye Print on Turbans; Source: Utsavpedia

Even today, the Lehariya saafa, along with bandhani, remains an integral part of traditional Rajasthani attire, especially in rural areas. It continues to be a cherished tradition in Hindu weddings, where Lehariya designs in red, yellow, and orange are popular among the male members of the wedding entourage, signifying respect for tradition and celebrating joy.

Historically, the fine cotton fabric featuring the Lehariya technique has been used to create garments such as ghagras, kurtas, kanchalis, angarakhis, and sarees. Newlywed brides are encouraged to wear vibrant pink Lehariya saris, considered lucky, during the first Teej after their wedding.Locally known as "rani pink," this shade was a favourite of the Rajasthani monarchs and has become the state's emblematic colour, earning the nickname "rani" (queen) pink.

Modern-day Rani pink Leheriya Sari; Source: Mirra Clothing

According to World Textiles: A Visual Guide to Traditional Techniques, the fabric is "rolled diagonally from one corner to the opposite selvedge, and then tied at the required intervals and dyed". The techniques of Lehariya tie-dye prints have been passed down through generations, a time-consuming process that can involve upto nine colours, taking nearly a month to prepare and dry for optimal results.

Lehariya is a water-centric tie-dying method, with the fabric knotted using damp threads made of various materials like cotton, polyester, nylon, silk, jute, and aluminium wires. After washing to remove starch and contaminants, the fabric must be slightly damp before the tying process. It is folded, rolled into the desired design, and secured with cotton threads. The knotted fabric is then dyed by combining dye powder and water to achieve the desired hue. The fabric is manually coloured by continuously and circularly moving it with the hands, ensuring deep absorption of the colour. This process takes about an hour and a half to ensure thorough penetration.

To achieve the Lehariya Prints, the fabric is rolled and tied in the desired design; Source: Gaatha

For fabrics with multiple colours, the first colour needs to be discharged before immersing the fabric in a solution of water and hydropower. Some dyes require heating before application to ensure optimal absorption. The dyed fabrics are then cooked in a dye and salt solution to permanently fix the colours. After dyeing, the fabric is repeatedly twisted and battered on a small stone platform to loosen the fabric allowing the dye to penetrate deeply. This process is repeated until the colour is evenly absorbed, after which excess colour and water are removed by forcefully twisting the fabric.

Fabrics are dyed in water to achieve the prints; Source: Gaatha

The knotted and dyed fabrics are dried by hanging them in the sun. To untie the fabric,  one end is grasped by the frayed ends of the knots and rolled in the opposite direction. Thus, Lehariya is created.

Lehariya prints are an ancient and traditional tie-dye technique, symbolising the vastness and grandeur of Rajasthan's deserts and dunes through shades and hues of vibrant colours. It is remarkable how Lehariya prints have preserved their original essence throughout history. In modern times, Leheriya has gained global popularity for its vibrant colours and lightweight fabric. It has been showcased in international fashion shows and is sought-after in export markets, particularly in countries with warmer climates. As contemporary India embraces its Swadeshi roots, Lehariya continues to soar in popularity among designers and locals alike.