Where History Paints Itself

Known by various names such as the Sethupathi Palace, Ramanathapuram Palace, or the Ramalinga Vilasam, the royal abode of the Sethupathi Kings of Tamil Nadu has carved out a niche for itself in the history of Tamil Nadu with its marvellous beauty and extraordinary paintings. The Sethupathi Palace is a testament to its own magnificence.

By https://lakshmisharath.com/ramanathapuram-palace-near-rameshwaram/

Nestled amidst bustling hotels, restaurants, tea stalls, and tourist attractions, stands the unassuming royal abode of the Sethupathi kings who once ruled the Tamil Nadu region in the 17th century. However, don't be deceived by its exterior - the interior of the palace is a sight to behold, exuding regality, majesty, and sheer awe!

The Sethupathi kings were revered rulers, regarded as guardians of the sethusamudram near Rameshawaram. Renowned for safeguarding pilgrims and travellers, they held dominion over Tamil Nadu for over 300 years. The construction of their palace is believed to have predated their reign.

Beyond their visual appeal, these murals hold significant importance for studying the mural tradition of 18th-century Tamil Nadu. Records indicate that they were periodically painted, sometimes regrettably covering the older ones. In one of the earliest studies conducted on the murals, George Patterson, Secretary to the British Government, noted in his diary:

"Ornamented all round with numberless paintings representing amorous combats in a variety of most voluptuous attitudes."

The palace complex comprises the entrance gate, the Durbar Hall (currently serving as a museum), and the private residence of the present King. Adjacent to the main complex, several structures mirroring the plan of the King's residence now lay in ruins. These were once the abodes of the King's many concubines.

The most captivating area within the palace is the Durbar Hall. Standing tall and imposing, it is adorned with two rows of pillars. The museum houses full-length portraits of the Sethupathi kings and their family members, along with rusted and blunted weapons that have long fallen out of use. These relics prompt contemplation on the strength, training, and precision required by the kings and warriors of that era to wield them. Among the peculiar objects on display is a colossal stone ball weighing approximately one ton, which served as a test of strength for prospective grooms in ancient times. Only those capable of flinging the ball over their shoulders would qualify for marriage!

However, it is the walls of the Durbar Hall that truly boast uniqueness. Every inch, from top to bottom, is adorned with paintings, even including the gateways. These walls serve as a treasure trove of stories encompassing epics, Puranas, wars, peace treaties, kings, queens, friendships, and power struggles. The murals also depict the Sethupathis being honoured and rewarded by the Nayakas, as well as their encounters with the British, who would eventually attempt to overthrow them, depicted demanding tributes or presenting gifts. Furthermore, the paintings offer glimpses into their lifestyle, showcasing their costumes, jewelry, dances, and sports.

"Decked in layers of costumes and bold jewellery, these rulers sit either at each other's table for signing treaties or forming new conspiracies." (From https://lakshmisharath.com/ramanathapuram-palace-near-rameshwaram/)

Nearby stands the Rajarajeshwari Temple, where the principal deity of the Sethupathi kings gracefully resides within a beautifully adorned shrine, bestowing blessings upon all who visit. Legend has it that the idol of the goddess was gifted to the Sethupathis by the Nayakas.

Ascending a narrow staircase from the Durbar Hall leads to the "King's bedroom" on the first floor, while another staircase from the area leads to the next level, housing the King's outlook post featuring a massive stone throne. From this vantage point, one can behold the entire expanse of Ramanathapuram. It was here that the King would often sit, overlooking his kingdom, contemplating the challenges faced by his people and devising solutions.

At one time, the outer walls of the palace were fortified with defensive measures, including strategically positioned cannons, guard posts, watchtowers, and a surrounding moat. Regrettably, the British demolished these fortifications when they gained control of the region.

Currently, the palace is inhabited by a cousin of the Queen and his wife, who run a school within the palace complex near Durbar Hall. The cousin is even known to meet and greet guests!

Constructed during the era of Kizhavan Sethupathi, the palace enthrals visitors with its visually captivating interiors, its association with the region's rich history, and the fond memories that locals hold of their former rulers. With its significant contributions to art, architecture, culture, heritage, and the local economy, the Sethupathi Palace stands as an exemplary testament to the transformative power of innovation and benevolence upon a place and its people.

The Durbar Hall https://lakshmisharath.com/ramanathapuram-palace-near-rameshwaram/

The costumes shown inside the museum By Kondephy - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=113086596

The murals by https://lakshmisharath.com/ramanathapuram-palace-near-rameshwaram/

By Duraionly - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=28662657

Some Europeans depicted in the murals by https://lakshmisharath.com/ramanathapuram-palace-near-rameshwaram/