Why is Skin Whitening Becoming Increasingly Widespread in India?

Skin whitening is harmful, both physically and psychologically. Yet, their sales are surging. They frequently disregard any potential health hazards that skin whitening may present. This is the result of years of cultural and societal prejudices that see lighter skin as more desirable.

Unilever Fair and Lovely skin-lightening creams on the counter of a shop in New Delhi. Source: Financial Times

Skin lighteners are a lucrative industry. The annual sales of skin-whitening creams in India alone total more than 732 million rupees. The majority of women in the world—eight out of ten—in Nigeria use skin whitening creams. The market for skin lightening in Asia-Pacific alone is estimated to be worth over 15 million US dollars. The global market for skin whitening products was estimated to be worth $341 million in 2022.  And it is anticipated that it will more than triple to 16.17 billion dollars by 2030. These items have been around for a while and have a history of causing both bodily and psychological harm.

What accounts for the rising popularity? To begin with, skin whitening products rely on ads showcasing actresses with the most attractive, glowing, or fairer complexion. Part of what grants people access and status in society is their skin colour. Dark complexion already carries a lot of unfavourable stereotypes, such as the inability to find true happiness, a husband, or meet the societal standards of beauty. Therefore, the advertising merely serves to reinforce and amplify a consistent message. It's a message that is permeating more and more individuals every year, thanks to globalisation. The value of the global cosmetics market was roughly $379 billion last year, and it is anticipated to increase. The largest portion of the global market for cosmetics is in the Asia-Pacific area, where the middle class is expanding rapidly. However, these goods and the messages in these advertisements are harmful since they are based on the idea of 'colourism,' which sociologist Margaret Hunter defines as the practice of discrimination that favours people of colour with lighter skin over those with darker skin. One study found that due to their dark skin tone, only eight of 100 trained hostesses/cabin crew were allowed to work as ground workers. According to a documentary called FAIR? a fairer child is frequently lauded more for being fair and beautiful than for other accomplishments.

Pears' Soap ads, released in 1899. Source: Library of Congress.

These kinds of attitudes also support long-held beliefs in racial superiority and cleanliness. For instance, historical soap commercials reinforced the notion of the 'White Man's Burden.' The idea that white civilisation, specifically European civilisation, is superior and that blackness is a type of uncleanliness that can be removed was part of a bigger mission. These advertisements were overtly racist. The Black Power movement, which was active throughout the civil rights era, used slogans like "Black is beautiful" to challenge this notion. The 'brown is beautiful' makeup lessons by Debasree Banerjee have also gained international acclaim. However, the harm that colourism caused over many years has not been repaired by these messages. These goods can harm the skin, which makes them unsafe as well. Dermatologists have seen irreparable skin thinning and extremely severe cystic acne. In addition to causing ochronosis, which is a paradoxical darkening of the skin, using high-strength hydroquinone can also be extremely damaging.

In addition to utilising creams, there are many other methods people are employing to lighten their skin, including receiving chemical peels, taking glutathione supplements or injections, or even washing their bodies and face with cleaning bleach. Hydroquinone is one of the most often utilised substances for skin whitening despite being a highly dangerous chemical used in photo processing, rubber manufacture, and hair colouring. Although it is prohibited in India and restricted in several other nations, customers are nevertheless able to access significant doses of it via illegal sources. Light-skinned beauty standards still exist in contemporary India in more covert messages about who is deemed the most attractive. Indian actresses Esha Gupta, Priyanka Chopra, and Bipasha Basu were asked to lighten their skin tone.

An Indian salesman poses with men's skin fairness products at a shop in New Delhi. Source: NPR

Although wanting lighter skin isn't necessarily a bad thing, it's crucial to understand this choice and how it differs from tanning your skin or applying lipstick. Because, in the end, skin whitening is a way of life, from using creams and undergoing frequent treatments to avoiding sun exposure altogether. With inclusive makeup brands, emojis' skin tones, diverse media campaigns highlighting the beauty of people with a dark complexion, and more celebrities speaking out about the issue, attitudes are beginning to change. But because it is so ingrained in society, many people are still unaware of their preferences for light skin, and despite the criticism and safety concerns of these products, the projected growth in sales means that there is still a long way to go before the practice of skin whitening is obsolete.